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Paris Revealed by Stephen Clarke
In 1868, Worth was instrumental in the creation of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne, and as we all know, once a French syndicat (union) gets involved, nothing will ever change again. Which is why all the Parisian haute couture houses, from Chanel to Dior to Yves Saint Laurent and beyond, have followed the same basic model—create a look, imbue it with Parisian exclusivity, and make people worship you. In short, Charles Worth invented not only haute couture but the whole concept of luxury branding, which has been as much a part of Paris’s appeal for the last century as the legs of its Eiffel Tower and those of its can-can dancers. France has a habit of denying foreigners credit for things they wish they had invented themselves, like the guillotine and the baguette.* Charles Worth, though, is an exception. Today, Paris’s haute couture industry is completely open about its debt to this Englishman.
But are its glory days over? 8 Food For Parisians, food isn’t only about taste—they also have to squeeze, prod and sniff it to make sure it’s fresh. The problem is, they like doing all these things to the food that other people are about to eat. Includes the best food markets in Paris, and how to spot a good or bad restaurant. 9 Fashion Surprisingly, it was an Englishman who created the concept of Parisian haute couture. And even more surprisingly, the Parisians give him credit for it. But why exactly is Paris la capitale de la mode? A designer explains. 10 Cinema The city’s movie career is stage-managed just as efficiently as that of any Hollywood star, and it has an agent who fights to get Paris’s name up on the big screen as often as possible. So what are the essential ingredients for a great Parisian film?
Franklin D. Roosevelt—its Line 9 platforms are like a rundown museum of 1950s design. Its aluminium walls and glass advertising display cases were, half a century ago, the height of avant-garde. These days, the dusty relics are boarded up and ignored by the crowds of commuters. Above ground, things are still trendy—the station’s Line 9 exit takes you to Avenue Montaigne, which is lined with haute couture stores. Porte de Montreuil—at the opposite end of Paris’s social scale, this station is one of the access points for the massive flea market on a Sunday. Ligne 10: Boulogne–Pont de Saint-Cloud–Gare d’Austerlitz A posh people’s line that goes through the Latin Quarter and out into the wilds of the 16th arrondissement, where it is used only by nannies, old ladies and rich schoolkids who haven’t yet been given a Vespa.
Cultureshock Paris by Cultureshock Staff
Chain of sporting equipment stores. Extensive selection of clothes at reasonable prices. 262 CultureShock! Paris SHOPPING Haute Couture Paris is, of course, the capital of haute couture. Haute couture may affect only a few men and women who can afford thousands of euros for a handmade suit or dress; nonetheless, the fashion industry occupies a prominent position in Paris and the world. Paris has always been known for its couturiers—Dior, Chanel, Givenchy, Hermès, Lanvin and Saint Laurent—but is now also feeling the presence of international designers such as the German Jill Sander, the Italian Giorgio Armani, the Japanese Issey Miyake and the Americans Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein. The famous Parisian haute couture fashion shows take place in February and July, but unless you are a celebrity, a fashion editor at a prominent magazine or newspaper, or a particularly heavy spender, do not expect to be invited.
Paris were settled into faceless residential suburbs. Fifty years later, these suburbs are openly seething with unrest. Nonetheless, city life after the war began to shine. Intellectuals once again rose to the forefront—Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and Albert Camus frequented the cafés on the Left Bank, foreign writers again found Paris as their muse and the film industry gained prominence worldwide. Haute cuisine and haute couture rose to their greatest heights and Paris became a tourist Mecca once again. Not even the explosive student unrest of 1968 could dent the reputation of Paris; today Paris is the most visited city in the world. Indeed, over the next several decades of the Fifth Republic (1958– ), under presidents from both the Right and the Left, Paris continued to build, restore and modernise. Some streets were widened and the péripherique was built to alleviate the clogging of the roads brought on by the proliferation of cars.
But not today! The old mansions are now occupied by embassies and offices, and the Palais de l’Elysée is the official residence of the president of France. Few of the old gems of apartments still exist, so when the corporate types go home for the evening, the side streets are left empty and dull. Contributing both to the commercialisation and elegance of this eastern edge is the Golden Triangle of the haute couture salons of famous French and international designers, high-class shops of other sorts and some of Paris’ finest purveyors of haute cuisine. Nonetheless, people live here and live very well. Around Place François-1er, tucked quietly toward the Seine and farther west at avenue George-V, graceful buildings house a privileged few—primarily older, wealthy Parisians. The apartments are large and comfortable, but rarely available.
Albert Einstein, Alistair Cooke, Anton Chekhov, British Empire, Columbine, Donald Trump, George Santayana, haute couture, Honoré de Balzac, John Nash: game theory, Network effects, placebo effect, Ralph Waldo Emerson, school vouchers, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs
–William Butler Yeats, Irish poet and dramatist haughty (HAW-tee), adjective Snobbish and arrogant. “The HAUGHTY sommelier, with his talismanic tasting cup and sometimes irritating self-assurance, is perceived more as the high priest of some arcane rite than as a dining room functionary paid to help you enjoy the evening.” – Frank J. Prial, former New York Times wine columnist haute couture (OAT-koo-TOOR), noun Highly fashionable clothing on the cutting edge of the latest design fads and trends. “HAUTE COUTURE should be fun, foolish, and almost unwearable.” – Christian Lacroix, French fashion designer haut monde (oh-MAHND), noun High society. “The literary wiseacres prognosticate in many languages, as they have throughout so many centuries, setting the stage for new HAUT MONDE in letters and making up the public’s mind.” – Fannie Hurst, American novelist hearsay (HEER-say), noun Information gathered from another that is not part of one’s direct knowledge.
Thomas’s STOLID demeanor hides the heart of a jet-setting playboy. stringent (STRIHN-juhnt), adjective Rigorous, strict, severe. “No laws, however STRINGENT, can make the idle industrious, the thriftless provident, or the drunken sober.” – Samuel Smiles, Scottish author and reformer strophe (STROF), noun A stanza containing lines that do not conform to the type, style, or form of the poem in which they appear. Those not wearing haute couture stick out at our gatherings like STROPHES stick out in short poems. stultify (STUHL-tuh-fie), verb To cause to appear foolish or ridiculous. The out-of-date chapeau absolutely STULTIFIED Heather’s otherwise immaculate couture. stygian (STY-gee-an), adjective Eerily quiet, so dark as to be almost pitch black. “STAND close around, ye STYGIAN set, / With Dirce in one boat convey’d! / Or Charon, seeing, may forget / That he is old and she a shade” – Walter Savage Landor, British writer and poet subjugation (sub-jih-GAY-shun), noun The process of making someone your inferior and requiring them to take orders from you.
Frommer's Irreverent Guide to Las Vegas by Mary Herczog, Jordan S. Simon
(127) • Thumbs up from the galleries (128) •Rev your motors (129) • For your viewing pleasure (129) • Away from the Strip (130) • Head for the lake (131) • Par for the course (131) • Rockin’ it (134) • Parking it (134) Maps Map 10 Las Vegas Diversions 108 The Index 135 An A to Z list of diversions, with vital statistics 4 CA S I N O S 142 Basic Stuff 144 The Rules & the Odds 145 Gambling terms 146 Getting Comped 147 The Lowdown 148 Friendliest pit staff (148) • Cheekiest waitress costumes (149) • For nickel-and-dimers (150) • Casinos Royale (151) • Most witty theme (151) • Old-style flavor (152) • Over the top (even by Vegas standards) (152) • Don’t live up to their billing (153) • Worth leaving the Strip to see (154) • High-roller havens (155) • Best bets (156) The Index 157 An A to Z list of places to gamble, with vital statistics 5 SHOPPING 162 Basic Stuff 165 Target Zones 165 Bargain Hunting 168 Hours of Business 169 The Lowdown 169 Best for kids (169) • Tackiest tchotchkes (170) • Souvenirs with panache (170) • Campier than thou (171) • For collectors (171) • Books and record deals (172) • Retro-fitting (172) • Haute couture (172) • Clubbier wear (172) • To beautify your home (173) • Forbidden delights (173) Maps Map 11 Las Vegas Shopping Districts 164 The Index 174 An A to Z list of places to shop, with vital statistics 6 NIGHTLIFE 178 Basic Stuff 181 Sources 182 What It Will Cost 182 Liquor Laws & Drinking Hours 183 Drugs 183 The Lowdown 183 Big throbbing dance clubs (183) • Dancing cheek to chic (185) • Ultratrendy ultra-lounges (185) • Best people-watching (186) • Drinks with a theme (186) • Class lounge acts (188) • Tit-illations (188) • Sin is in (190) • See-and-be-scenes (190) • Vintage Vegas (191) • Love shacks (191) • Where to get intimate (192) • Rainbow nights (192) • Wildest decor (193) • Rooms with a view (193) • True brew (194) • Martini madness (194) • Cocktail culture (195) • Country roots (196) • Sports bars (196) • Frat parties (196) • Where locals hang out (197) • Cigars, cigarettes (197) • The piano man (198) • Singing a blues streak (198) • Where to hear local bands (198) Maps Map 12 Map 13 Map 14 Map 15 Las Vegas Nightlife 180 Strip Nightlife 199 Nightlife East of Strip 200 Nightlife West of Strip 201 The Index 202 An A to Z list of nightspots, with vital statistics 7 E N T E R TA I N M E N T 210 Basic Stuff 213 Sources 214 Getting Tickets 215 The Lowdown 216 What money does for the imagination (216) • And the Liberace award goes to (217) • The bare necessities (218) • Where the boys aren’t (219) • Presto!
In the late ’90s, Las Vegas casino-hotels were suddenly struck with a desire for “class,” like a retired madam who madly redecorates in an effort to win over her former clients’ wives. The prime class-monger is Steve Wynn, whose swan song as CEO of Mirage Resorts was the surface-exquisite Lake Como–style palazzo Bellagio. Highly refined (at least by Las Vegas standards), it strives to offer the best of the best, or at least the best that money can buy: world-renowned chefs/restaurateurs, haute couture shops, a spa offering no less than eight facials, the ACCOMMODATIONS casino-hotels, emphasis on the casino), seem more expensive on the surface, but have much less in the way of hidden costs—at other properties, you pay extra for health club access and other goodies, which add up fast. While there are still bargains on the Strip itself (especially on weekdays), many people on a budget prefer to stay Downtown, where you can hit 15 casinos in a four-block radius.
Valentino’s caters to the Swing Era revival, with everything from 1920s rhinestone anklets to 1940s zoot suits. For the ultimate in retro bijoux, scope out Tiffany’s and Gucci’s Via Bellagio neighbor, Fred K. Leighton, renowned for estate and antique jewelry, including items from the Duchess of Windsor’s collection and Art Deco masterpieces from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. At Buffalo Exchange you can find funky ’70s stuff like tan suede leisure suits and red platform shoes. Haute couture... The Armani boutique at Via Bellagio displays clothing fetishistically for maximum impact. Hunt down tiny Ice in the Forum Shops for one-of-a-kind delights from the owner’s various international forays— silver, shawls, sweaters, and hand-painted silk and cutvelvet scarves. Also in the Forum Shops you’ll find Shauna Stein, which sells hot looks from Oldham to Valentino, and the over-the-top sequined and beaded bags of Judith Leiber.
Fodor's Rome: With the Best City Walks and Scenic Day Trips by Fodor's Travel Publications Inc.
Pros: flat-screen TVs with satellite TV; doesn’t have the feel of a budget hotel; discount if you pay cash; great value. Cons: rooms are small; no individual climate control or refrigerators in the rooms. | Rooms from: €140 | Via Magenta 15, Termini | 00185 | 06/44363836 | www.yeshotelrome.com | 29 rooms, 1 suite | Breakfast. VENETO, BORGHESE, AND SPAGNA Though the glamorous days of dolce vita, when celebs and paparazzi packed the famed Via Veneto, are long gone, this area still houses haute couture shops—Gucci, Prada, Fendi—and loads of fine restaurants and luxury lodgings. It’s the absolute best place to do some serious shopping, and its dining scene and street caffè make for great people-watching. The American Embassy is here and so is the Hard Rock Café, and it’s convenient to Villa Borghese, the Spanish Steps, and Rome’s Metro stop—Barberini is at the bottom of the uphill-winding (and rather steep) street.
Rome has been setting fashion trends since the days of the Caesars, so it’s little wonder that this is the city that gave us the Gucci “moccasin” loafer, the Fendi bag, and the Valentino dress Jackie O wore when she became Mrs. Onassis. While the famous double-Gs can now be found in boutiques around the world, the mother store is right here on Via Condotti, a “shopping mall” lined with Bulgari diamonds and Pratesi linens. A stroll along this concentrated corridor is as great for people-watching as it is for Italian haute couture and prêt-à-porter. The shops can be as intimidating as they are strikingly beautiful, but plastic is the universal equalizer so go ahead and indulge your inner celebrity. BEST TIME TO GO Visitors with a sumptuous sense of bella figura will want to time their retail therapy for just after lunch Tuesday through Friday afternoons or during the evening passeggiata when Via Condotti becomes one gigantic catwalk.
Whether you are looking for a wedding dress or a seductive bustier, you are bound to find something unconventional here. Designer and owner Patriza Pieroni creates many of the pieces on display, all cleverly cut and decidedly captivating. | Via del Pellegrino 172 | 00186 | 06/6880242 | www.patriziapieroni.it. Le Tartarughe. Designer Susanna Liso, a Rome native, adds suggestive elements of playful experimentation to her haute couture and ready-to-wear lines, which are much loved by Rome’s aristocracy and intelligentsia. With intense and enveloping designs, she mixes raw silks or cashmere and fine merino wool together to form captivating garments that are a mix of seduction and linear form. Le Tartarughe can be found at two locations close to the Pantheon. | Via Piè di Marmo 17 | 00186 | 06/6792240 | www.letartarughe.eu. Maga Morgana.
The Big Book of Words You Should Know: Over 3,000 Words Every Person Should Be Able to Use (And a Few That You Probably Shouldn't) by David Olsen, Michelle Bevilacqua, Justin Cord Hayes
fin de siecle (fahn-day-say-ECK-luh), adjective This French expression meaning “end of the century” typically refers to the fashions, art, ideas, etc. associated with the end of the nineteenth century, but in general use, the expression describes ideas, art, fashions, etc. considered modern and up-to-date. Martin prides himself on always being aware of FIN DE SIECLE philosophies, especially those that come from Europe. haute couture (OAT kyoo-CHOOR), noun High fashion. Haute couture is the most stylish and influential way of designing clothes at a given time. (Haute couture also refers to articles of clothing currently considered of the highest style.) Unfamiliar with the ways of HAUTE COUTURE, Wendell decided to pass up the fashion show. haute cuisine (oat kwi-ZEEN), noun Gourmet preparation of food. Haute cuisine can also refer to the preparation of meals as an art form. Glenn knows more than we do about HAUTE CUISINE; let’s let him pick the restaurant tonight.
Fodor's Dordogne & the Best of Southwest France With Paris by Fodor's Travel Publications Inc.
Thanks to its stunning nighttime illumination, topped by four 6,000-watt projectors creating a lighthouse beacon visible for 80 km (50 mi) around, it continues to make Paris live up to its moniker La Ville Lumière—the City of Light. Water is the second highlight here: fountains playing beneath Place du Trocadéro and boat tours along the Seine on a Bateau Mouche. Museums are the third; the area around Trocadéro is full of them. Style is the fourth, and not just because the buildings here are overwhelmingly elegant—but because this is also the center of haute couture, with the top names in fashion all congregated around Avenue Montaigne, only a brief walk from the Champs-Élysées, to the north. TOP ATTRACTIONS FROM THE EIFFEL TOWER TO THE ARC DE TRIOMPHE Arc de Triomphe. Set on Place Charles-de-Gaulle—known to Parisians as L’Étoile, or the Star (a reference to the streets that fan out from it)—the colossal, 164-foot Arc de Triomphe arch was planned by Napoléon but not finished until 1836, 20 years after the end of his rule.
You can find everything you’ll need for a picnic as well as gifts to bring home to your favorite foodie. If you’re here in the morning, Le Mouffetard Café (No. 116) is a good place to stop for breakfast (for about €8). For one of the best baguettes in Paris detour to the nearby Boulanger de Monge, which includes a scrumptious selection of organic offerings, at 123 rue Monge. Note that most of the shops are closed on Monday. QUICK BITES: Cafés all over sell this haute couture brand of ice cream, but the headquarters of Berthillon (31 rue St-Louis-en-l’Ile,Ile St-Louis | 75004 | 01–43–54–31–61) is the place to come for this amazing treat. It features more than 30 flavors that change with the seasons, including scrumptious chocolat au nougat and mouth-puckering cassis (black currant). Expect to wait in line. The shop and adjacent tea salon is open Wednesday to Sunday 10–8 but closed during the peak summer season, from July 20 to September 1.
The basement has a water bar and a small restaurant that’s good for a quick bite. Jean-Paul Gaultier (44 av. George V,Champs-Élysées,8e | 01–44–43–00–44 | Station: George V | 6 Galerie Vivienne,Opéra/Grands Boulevards,2e | 75002 | 01–42–86–05–05 | Station: Bourse) first made headlines with his celebrated corset with the ironic i-conic breasts for Madonna, but now sends fashion editors into ecstasy with his sumptuous haute-couture creations. Designer Philippe Starck spun an Alice in Wonderland fantasy for the boutiques, with quilted cream walls and Murano mirrors. GIFTS FOR THE HOME Maison de Baccarat (11 pl. des États-Unis,Trocadéro/Tour Eiffel, 16e | 75016 | 01–40–22–11–00 | Station: Trocadéro) was once the home of Marie-Laure de Noailles, known as the Countess of Bizarre; now it’s a museum and crystal store of the famed manufacturer.
Speculative Everything: Design, Fiction, and Social Dreaming by Anthony Dunne, Fiona Raby
3D printing, augmented reality, autonomous vehicles, Berlin Wall, Buckminster Fuller, Cass Sunstein, computer age, corporate governance, David Attenborough, en.wikipedia.org, Fall of the Berlin Wall, game design, global village, Google X / Alphabet X, haute couture, life extension, Mark Zuckerberg, mouse model, New Urbanism, Peter Eisenman, RAND corporation, Richard Thaler, Ronald Reagan, self-driving car, Silicon Valley, social software, technoutopianism, Wall-E
In Facestate (2011) Metahaven use the kind of strategic thinking usually applied to commercial corporate identity projects to critique the political implications of blurring boundaries between consumerism and citizenship, especially when social software is embraced by governments in the name of improved transparency and interaction. Metahaven, Facestate, 2011. Photograph by Gene Pittman. Photograph courtesy of Walker Art Center. In fashion it ranges from one-off haute couture pieces for the catwalk to mass-produced diffusion lines for sale in high street shops. In the 1960s, inspired by the space age, designers such as Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin, and Pacco Rabanne disregarded practicalities to explore ideas about the future using new forms, production processes, and materials. In the 1980s, Katherine Hamnett made protest t-shirts fashionable with her infamous slogan t-shirts such as "NUCLEAR BAN NOW," "PRESERVE THE RAINFORESTS," "SAVE THE WORLD," and "EDUCATION NOT MISSILES."
Yet designers participate in the generation and maintenance of all sorts of fictions, from feature-heavy electronic devices meeting the imaginary needs of imaginary users, to the creation of fantasy brand worlds referenced through products, their content, and their use. Designers today are expert fictioneers in denial. Although there have always been design speculations (e.g., car shows, future visions, haute couture fashions shows), design has become so absorbed in industry, so familiar with the dreams of industry, that it is almost impossible to dream its own dreams, let alone social ones. We are interested in liberating this story making (not storytelling) potential, this dreammaterializing ability, from purely commercial applications and redirecting it toward more social ends that address the citizen rather than the consumer or perhaps both at the same time.
The Cloudspotter's Guide by Gavin Pretor-Pinney
In this way, they develop a narrow central shaft with a wide hexagonal plate at the end, known as a ‘capped column’. It is not uncommon for a plate to develop at both ends of the central shaft, so that it now looks as if the clumsy seamstress has dropped her spools, as well as her needles. The glittering secrets of ice-cloud fashion: from the finest ‘ice needles’ to the spool-shaped ‘capped columns’; from the classic haute couture of ‘stellar dendrites’ to the more street look of ‘rime’ deposits. The speed at which a cloud’s crystals grow depends on the temperature and humidity of the surrounding air, and appears to be the crucial factor in determining their shape. The faster they grow, the more complex and intricate their forms. As anyone in fashion knows, the secret of style is in combinations. As crystals fall through very different regions of air, they can take on combined forms, such as plates, columns or stellar dendrites with additional dendrite branches sprouting from them at strange angles.
When ice finds its way to the ground and falls as snow, it will have passed through many different temperatures and humidities on the way down, and will frequently have played its part in several cloud formations as it did so. No wonder, then, that snow is often in the form of a tangle of individual crystals, generally referred to as ‘snowflakes’. The shape of crystals becomes less regular as they fall through clouds of liquid droplets, which tend to freeze on to them as ‘rime’, roughening their sides or making them fur up, like the element of a kettle. It is more of a street look, compared with the timeless haute couture of elevated, pure crystals. Despite the stunning range of crystal forms, there is one theme that keeps appearing season after season –the number six. The arms of the stellar dendrites and the sectored plates, the edges of the hexagonal plates, the sides of the columns…when it comes to ice crystals, six, rather than three, is the magic number. This is due to the shape of water molecules, which determines that as they join to form crystals, they do so in a lattice formation of hexagons –a molecular honeycomb.
Plutocrats: The Rise of the New Global Super-Rich and the Fall of Everyone Else by Chrystia Freeland
activist fund / activist shareholder / activist investor, Albert Einstein, algorithmic trading, assortative mating, banking crisis, barriers to entry, Basel III, battle of ideas, Bernie Madoff, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, Black Swan, Branko Milanovic, Bretton Woods, BRICs, business climate, call centre, carried interest, Cass Sunstein, Clayton Christensen, collapse of Lehman Brothers, commoditize, conceptual framework, corporate governance, creative destruction, credit crunch, Credit Default Swap, crony capitalism, Deng Xiaoping, don't be evil, double helix, energy security, estate planning, experimental subject, financial deregulation, financial innovation, Flash crash, Frank Gehry, Gini coefficient, global village, Goldman Sachs: Vampire Squid, Gordon Gekko, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, high net worth, income inequality, invention of the steam engine, job automation, John Markoff, joint-stock company, Joseph Schumpeter, knowledge economy, knowledge worker, liberation theology, light touch regulation, linear programming, London Whale, low skilled workers, manufacturing employment, Mark Zuckerberg, Martin Wolf, Mikhail Gorbachev, Moneyball by Michael Lewis explains big data, NetJets, new economy, Occupy movement, open economy, Peter Thiel, place-making, Plutocrats, plutocrats, Plutonomy: Buying Luxury, Explaining Global Imbalances, postindustrial economy, Potemkin village, profit motive, purchasing power parity, race to the bottom, rent-seeking, Rod Stewart played at Stephen Schwarzman birthday party, Ronald Reagan, self-driving car, short selling, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Simon Kuznets, Solar eclipse in 1919, sovereign wealth fund, stem cell, Steve Jobs, the new new thing, The Spirit Level, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Tony Hsieh, too big to fail, trade route, trickle-down economics, Tyler Cowen: Great Stagnation, wage slave, Washington Consensus, winner-take-all economy, zero-sum game
He saw an opportunity to expand the business by sewing clothes for his clients, not just selling them fabrics. Worth persuaded his initially hesitant employers to back his idea, and they opened a small dressmaking department. It became increasingly profitable, and Worth was made a partner in the firm. That success emboldened him to set up his own venture in 1858, financed by Otto Gustav Bobergh, a Swedish investor. Before long Worth had created a new superstar profession—haute couture—and become its first practitioner. Worth sewed his label into his dresses. Rather than sewing clothes created by his clients, he invented modern fashion design by presenting his own styles four times a year, then custom producing them for his clients. Worth was an avid adopter of technology. The first reliable sewing machine was patented in Boston by Isaac Singer in 1851, seven years before Worth opened his dressmaking shop, and his seamstresses used sewing machines wherever that was quicker and more efficient than stitching by hand.
Billington’s earnings were limited by the number of people who could hear her perform in person, the six thousand to seven thousand gowns the House of Worth produced a year were each tailored to the body of a specific client. — But just as Charlie Chaplin’s superstardom dwarfed Elizabeth Billington’s since he could perform for the masses, fashion designers became exponentially richer when they expanded from the haute couture business to prêt-à-porter. That revolution happened in 1966, when Yves Saint Laurent opened his first Rive Gauche ready-to-wear store on the rue de Tournon in the sixth arrondissement of Paris, less than two miles away from the original home of Worth and Bobergh, where Charles Worth had gone into business just over a century earlier. It took the couturiers a long time to reap the benefits of mass production.
Many of Saint Laurent’s fellow elite couturiers were horrified. Emanuel Ungaro wrote that the opening of Rive Gauche saddened him greatly. Pierre Cardin, who had experimented with, then abandoned his own foray into, ready-to-wear a year earlier, warned that by leveling and standardizing, we are going to fabricate a world where “we will die of boredom.” Before long, however, it became clear that by producing both an haute couture line and a prêt-à-porter line—offering very costly personal service to the super-rich, and using technology to scale their talent—the fashion designers at the very height of their profession could benefit from both Marshall and Rosen effects. In 1975, Yves Saint Laurent earned $25 million, a hundred times what Charles Worth earned at the peak of his career (when taking inflation into account).
Branded Beauty by Mark Tungate
augmented reality, Berlin Wall, call centre, corporate social responsibility, double helix, East Village, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Frank Gehry, haute couture, invention of the printing press, joint-stock company, liberal capitalism, placebo effect, Ray Kurzweil, Silicon Valley, stem cell
Chanel’s global CEO, Maureen Chiquet, said in a statement: ‘His larger-than-life personality, immense talents and unique vision have defined Chanel as the ultimate house of luxury, with an unparalleled global presence… He succeeded in bringing Chanel into the 21st century as a leader in the world of exclusivity.’ This might have somewhat wounded Karl Lagerfeld, designer of the brand’s fashion collections. But as Coco discovered when she emerged from her Swiss redoubt, the fashion industry is fuelled by fragrances. It’s no coincidence that, during the brand’s fall/winter 2009 haute couture show, the models stalking the runway were overshadowed by towering replicas of the Chanel No. 5 bottle. A FANTASY IN A BOTTLE Yves Saint Laurent knew all about the importance of fragrances to the fashion industry. The designer’s blockbuster ‘oriental’ scent Opium transformed the fortunes of his house; by its 30th anniversary in 1992 the company was earning more than 80 per cent of its income from fragrances and cosmetics.
That’s why beauty products continue to sell during a recession. Consumers are not addicted to the result, but to the feeling. Imagining the opulent spa or the brave eco-scientist hacking his way through a tropical rainforest is part of that experience. Still, it’s worth bearing in mind that the main ingredient of most skincare products – from the cheapest to the most expensive – is water. BEAUTY TIPS • Haute couture fashion brands were quick to move into perfume and make-up, establishing a legitimacy in the beauty sector. • They followed up with creams as their consumers turned to combating wrinkles rather than simply hiding them. • They invested in research departments in order to compete with the likes of P&G and L’Oréal. • Research into ‘active ingredients’ drives the stories that are used to sell creams
The Power of Habit: Why We Do What We Do in Life and Business by Charles Duhigg
Atul Gawande, Checklist Manifesto, corporate governance, cuban missile crisis, delayed gratification, desegregation, game design, haute couture, impulse control, index card, meta analysis, meta-analysis, patient HM, pattern recognition, randomized controlled trial, rolodex, Rosa Parks, Silicon Valley, telemarketer, Tenerife airport disaster, Toyota Production System, transaction costs, Walter Mischel
If you could somehow diagram all your work habits—and the informal power structures, relationships, alliances, and conflicts they represent—and then overlay your diagram with diagrams prepared by your colleagues, it would create a map of your firm’s secret hierarchy, a guide to who knows how to make things happen and who never seems to get ahead of the ball. Nelson and Winter’s routines—and the truces they make possible—are critical to every kind of business. One study from Utrecht University in the Netherlands, for instance, looked at routines within the world of high fashion. To survive, every fashion designer has to possess some basic skills: creativity and a flair for haute couture as a start. But that’s not enough to succeed.6.25 What makes the difference between success or failure are a designer’s routines—whether they have a system for getting Italian broadcloth before wholesalers’ stocks sell out, a process for finding the best zipper and button seamstresses, a routine for shipping a dress to a store in ten days, rather than three weeks. Fashion is such a complicated business that, without the right processes, a new company will get bogged down with logistics, and once that happens, creativity ceases to matter.
The literature started by Steven Klepper interpreted this aspect of routines as part of the reason why spinoffs are in performance similar to their parents. I use this same reasoning in the fashion design industry: fashion design entrepreneurs form to a large extent their new firm’s blueprint based on the organisational routines learned at their former employer. In my PhD research, I found evidence that from the start of the haute couture industry (1858 Paris), spinoff designer firms (whether located in NY, Paris, Milan or London, etc.) do indeed have a similar performance as their motherfirms.” 6.26 and found the right alliances Details regarding truces—as opposed to routines—within the fashion industry draw on interviews with designers themselves. Wenting, in a response to fact-checking questions, wrote: “Note that I do not speak of truces between entrepreneur and former employer.
Born Standing Up: A Comic's Life by Steve Martin
My mother was the daughter of a strict Baptist matriarch who barred dancing, dating, and cardplaying, and she must have viewed her marriage to my theatrically inclined father as an exciting alternative to small-town life. But my father overpowered her easily intimidated personality, and she only escaped from one repressive situation into another. My mother in Waco, Texas, ca. 1933. My sister and me in haute couture, hand-sewn by my mother. Though I was just eight years old, I was, like most children in that benign era, allowed to walk alone the few blocks to my new school, Oak Street Elementary, which opened in the 1920s and is still operating today. It has a wee bit of architecture about it, featuring an inner Spanish courtyard with six shady ficus trees. It is directly under the flight path of LAX, and our routine civil defense drills had us convinced that every commercial jet roaring overhead was really a Russian plane about to discharge A-bombs.
My Misspent Youth: Essays by Meghan Daum
Even though I was heading into my late twenties, I was still a child, ignorant of dance steps or health insurance, a prisoner of credit-card debt and student loans and the nagging feeling that I didn’t want anyone to find me until I had pulled myself into some semblance of an adult. I was a true believer in the urban dream—in years of struggle succumbing to brilliant success, in getting a break, in making it. Like most of my friends, I was selfish by design. To want was more virtuous than to need. I wanted someone to love me but I certainly didn’t need it. I didn’t want to be alone, but as long as I was, I had no choice but to wear my solitude as though it were haute couture. The worst sin imaginable was not cruelty or bitchiness or even professional failure but vulnerability. To admit to loneliness was to slap the face of progress. It was to betray the times in which we lived. But PFSlider derailed me. He gave me all of what I’d never realized I wanted. He called not only when he said he would, but unexpectedly, just to say hello. His guard was not merely down but nonexistent.
Sweetness and Light: The Mysterious History of the Honeybee by Hattie Ellis
We passed ten minutes or so, discussing how the United States Department of Agriculture had classified light honeys above dark honeys, despite their rich flavors; about the gender politics of the hive (“all women love the bit about the drones being expelled,” he quipped ruefully); about the eucalyptus honey of California and the blueberry honey of Maine. It was an encounter that was part of the serendipity of the city, and of the subject. THE CITY is the place where humans gather and hum; the city is where we fly to get the pick of the crop from shops. La Maison du Miel, in the rue Vignon, just north of the haute couture near the Madeleine, is the longest established honey shop in Paris, opened in 1905, with the original mosaic bees still on the floor. The shop started as a cooperative of beekeepers who wanted to get their produce sold in the capital. It is still run by the same family; they now buy other honeys and have seven hundred hives of their own, which they move around the countryside to the best nectar sources.
Albert Einstein, Ayatollah Khomeini, Cal Newport, clean water, collective bargaining, corporate governance, creative destruction, Credit Default Swap, haute couture, Honoré de Balzac, Howard Zinn, illegal immigration, income inequality, Joseph Schumpeter, Naomi Klein, offshore financial centre, Ralph Nader, Ronald Reagan, single-payer health, statistical model, uranium enrichment
The American oligarchy, 1 percent of whom control more wealth than the bottom 90 percent combined, are the characters we envy and watch on television. They live and play in multimillion dollar beach houses and expansive modern lofts. They marry professional athletes and are chauffeured in stretch limos to spa appointments. They rush from fashion shows to movie premieres, flaunting their surgically enhanced, perfect bodies in haute couture. Their teenagers throw $200,000 parties and have $1 million dollar weddings. This life is held before us like a beacon. This life, we are told, is the most desirable, the most gratifying. The working classes, comprising tens of millions of struggling Americans, are shut out of television’s gated community. They have become largely invisible. They are mocked, even as they are tantalized, by the lives of excess they watch on the screen in their living rooms.
The Great Fragmentation: And Why the Future of All Business Is Small by Steve Sammartino
3D printing, additive manufacturing, Airbnb, augmented reality, barriers to entry, Bill Gates: Altair 8800, bitcoin, BRICs, Buckminster Fuller, citizen journalism, collaborative consumption, cryptocurrency, David Heinemeier Hansson, Elon Musk, fiat currency, Frederick Winslow Taylor, game design, Google X / Alphabet X, haute couture, helicopter parent, illegal immigration, index fund, Jeff Bezos, jimmy wales, Kickstarter, knowledge economy, Law of Accelerating Returns, lifelogging, market design, Metcalfe's law, Metcalfe’s law, Minecraft, minimum viable product, Network effects, new economy, peer-to-peer, post scarcity, prediction markets, pre–internet, profit motive, race to the bottom, random walk, Ray Kurzweil, recommendation engine, remote working, RFID, Rubik’s Cube, self-driving car, sharing economy, side project, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, skunkworks, Skype, social graph, social web, software is eating the world, Steve Jobs, survivorship bias, too big to fail, US Airways Flight 1549, web application, zero-sum game
The collaborative consumption movement means that buying is a choice rather than a necessity. We can rent cars by increments of hours now and have all the benefits of a private car on demand without the excessive cost of hiring or owning one. This is pretty significant given that the average motor vehicle spends more than 90 per cent of its available life idle in a car space. We can now gain temporary access to goods, from haute-couture handbags, to chainsaws, to private jets, to gardens, to office spaces, to bicycles. Anything that can be bought can now be accessed. The story of music All goods, even those that started as physical goods, are moving towards access, sharing and temporary interaction. Music is a classic example. If we think back to how music has evolved through history, it’s been on a constant path towards more seamlessly distributing itself by consistently removing the physical requirements for hearing it, making it more available and accessible.
Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, Amazon Web Services, asset allocation, autonomous vehicles, bank run, bitcoin, Bob Noyce, Brian Krebs, buy low sell high, Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty, combinatorial explosion, computer vision, corporate governance, crowdsourcing, en.wikipedia.org, Erik Brynjolfsson, estate planning, Flash crash, Gini coefficient, Goldman Sachs: Vampire Squid, haute couture, hiring and firing, income inequality, index card, industrial robot, information asymmetry, invention of agriculture, Jaron Lanier, Jeff Bezos, job automation, John Markoff, John Maynard Keynes: Economic Possibilities for our Grandchildren, Loebner Prize, Mark Zuckerberg, mortgage debt, natural language processing, Own Your Own Home, pattern recognition, Satoshi Nakamoto, school choice, Schrödinger's Cat, Second Machine Age, self-driving car, sentiment analysis, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Skype, software as a service, The Chicago School, The Future of Employment, Turing test, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, winner-take-all economy, women in the workforce, working poor, Works Progress Administration
Once a humdrum collection of workaday stores, it now sports upscale establishments with the latest luxury goods. The town diner has gone out of business because far fewer people could afford to eat out, and in its place stands a gourmet restaurant, frequented almost exclusively by the wealthiest twenty families in town. The shop windows that used to display galoshes now showcase designer pumps, and the haberdashery has become an haute couture boutique. What beautiful improvements— the townspeople must be so pleased! Unfortunately, what the visitor can’t see is that most of the residents never visit these stores. Instead they drive to a Walmart fifty miles away to pick up in bulk the weekly staples they can afford. Enormous disparities in living standards are a public disgrace, and we need to fix it. I’m old enough to remember when being rich meant that you had a color TV, and being poor meant you could afford only a black-and-white set.
Primates of Park Avenue: A Memoir by Wednesday Martin Ph.d.
I thought her a crass bully, and even worse, an empress with no clothes, the Chanel notwithstanding. Because she was so rich and powerful, the people who rolled their eyes behind her back were too petrified to actually confront her about her nasty antics. School administrators looked the other way because she made big contributions. Everyone else took her put-downs meekly and sat at her table at events, hoping for a scrap of I didn’t know what. Business? Money? A ruffle or ribbon of her haute couture? “Hi,” she said, sort of looking through me. My mind hopped and skipped. My head bobbled. “Oh, sorry, my son is—” I began, rattled, looking wildly from side to side for an escape route. She couldn’t have cared less that I was talking and broke in as if I had no right to respond to her salutation. “I heard about your story or book or . . . whatever. What’s it called?” She scanned the lawn for better prospects.
Tomorrowland: Our Journey From Science Fiction to Science Fact by Steven Kotler
Albert Einstein, Alexander Shulgin, autonomous vehicles, barriers to entry, Burning Man, carbon footprint, Colonization of Mars, crowdsourcing, Dean Kamen, epigenetics, gravity well, haute couture, interchangeable parts, Kevin Kelly, life extension, Louis Pasteur, North Sea oil, Oculus Rift, oil shale / tar sands, peak oil, personalized medicine, Peter H. Diamandis: Planetary Resources, RAND corporation, Ray Kurzweil, Richard Feynman, Richard Feynman, Ronald Reagan, self-driving car, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Stewart Brand, theory of mind, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, Whole Earth Catalog, WikiLeaks
It’s technically the tale of skydiver Felix Baumgartner’s attempt to break a world record, except that the record he’s set his sights on is actually an off-world record — it is a demonstration that our urge to play, interwoven with our need to push limits, has actually left the planet. In short, we have just added an entirely new level of meaning to the phrase “We got next.” 1. The balloon is a marvel, ghostly silver, as thin as a dry-cleaning bag. Partially inflated at the Roswell, New Mexico, launch site, it looks like an amoeba dressed in haute couture. In the lower atmosphere, at full height, it rises a majestic fifty-five stories. In the stratosphere, pancaked by pressure, it stretches wider than a football field. And it’s the stratosphere where skydiver Felix Baumgartner is heading. The date is October 14, 2012. The plan is for Baumgartner to ride that balloon higher than anyone has ridden before — some twenty-four miles above the Earth.
Geek Sublime: The Beauty of Code, the Code of Beauty by Vikram Chandra
Alan Turing: On Computable Numbers, with an Application to the Entscheidungsproblem, Apple II, barriers to entry, Berlin Wall, British Empire, business process, conceptual framework, create, read, update, delete, crowdsourcing, don't repeat yourself, Donald Knuth, East Village, European colonialism, finite state, Firefox, Flash crash, glass ceiling, Grace Hopper, haute couture, iterative process, Jaron Lanier, John von Neumann, land reform, London Whale, Norman Mailer, Paul Graham, pink-collar, revision control, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley ideology, Skype, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, supercomputer in your pocket, theory of mind, Therac-25, Turing machine, wikimedia commons, women in the workforce
In general, though, programmers are now skeptical of the notion that there’s any silver bullet for complexity. The programmer and popular blogger Steve Yegge, in his foreword to a book called The Joy of Clojure, describes the language as a “minor miracle” and “an astoundingly high-quality language … the best I’ve ever seen,” but he also notes that it is “fashionable,” and that our industry, the global programming community, is fashion-driven to a degree that would embarrass haute couture designers from New York to Paris … Fashion dictates the programming languages people study in school, the languages employers hire for, the languages that get to be in books on shelves. A naive outsider might wonder if the quality of a language matters a little, just a teeny bit at least, but in the real world fashion trumps all.19 In respect to programming languages and techniques, the programming industry has now been through many cycles of faith and disillusionment, and many of its members have acquired a sharp, necessary cynicism.
Evil by Design: Interaction Design to Lead Us Into Temptation by Chris Nodder
4chan, affirmative action, Amazon Mechanical Turk, cognitive dissonance, crowdsourcing, Daniel Kahneman / Amos Tversky, Donald Trump, en.wikipedia.org, endowment effect, game design, haute couture, jimmy wales, Jony Ive, Kickstarter, late fees, loss aversion, Mark Zuckerberg, meta analysis, meta-analysis, Milgram experiment, Netflix Prize, Nick Leeson, Occupy movement, pets.com, price anchoring, recommendation engine, Rory Sutherland, Silicon Valley, stealth mode startup, Steve Jobs, telemarketer, Tim Cook: Apple, trickle-down economics, upwardly mobile
Creating desirability through association with a famous person (desirability through identity) is the basis of celebrity endorsements and the reason why movie stars don’t pay for the dresses they wear on the red carpet at the Oscars award ceremony. Fashion from Paris catwalks and the red carpet at the Oscars makes its way into high street stores and big box retailers quickly because wearing something visibly similar to the haute couture clothes is aspirational. Given that people will emulate their idols, there is obviously a place for idols to endorse products online in more creative ways than just appearing in advertisements. Leveraging aspiration online has even extended to Twitter. Now, companies can pay celebrities to tweet 140 characters about their brand or latest campaign. Sponsoredtweets.com has a sliding payment scale based on the popularity of the celebrity.
The Bend of the World: A Novel by Jacob Bacharach
I’m a little hard up in re: the matter of purchasing a ticket, and I figure your grandmother is one of the big Jews at the museum and can get us tickets. Lauren Sara and I are going. I can totally get you a ticket, though. Why is she going? She’s my girlfriend. And she’s an artist. And cetera. An artist. Misplaced affection has misplaced your critical faculties, brother. She is to an artist as Goodwill is to haute couture. You are gay, I said. Fuck off, Johnny said. I don’t want to go anyway. Museums are just massive institutions designed to provide scholar-backed social capital to the notion of art-as-commodity and to reify the artist as a separate caste rather than art as a fundamental human activity. I’d rather not. But seriously, the Pringle thing. Think about it. What’s the thing again? I asked, but he was already gone. 4 Did you hear?
Stuff: Compulsive Hoarding and the Meaning of Things by Gail Steketee, Randy Frost
It was important, he noted, to wear the right clothes for each social occasion, day and night, and since he still had free dry cleaning from his arts producer days, there was no need to worry about cost. "But now I can't find what I'm looking for," he said, adding that it sometimes took him two hours to dress as he struggled to locate the right item in his mass of clothes and accessories. "I live as if it's a dressing room." Colin acquired nearly all his clothes for free. His designer friends and former colleagues regularly sent him haute couture for his personal use. These gifts were intended to gain his approval and pay him back for favors in the past. If Colin merely mentioned to a friend that he might need something for his travels, it arrived on his doorstep from London, Moscow, or Paris. Because his income was now fixed, Colin relied on these former colleagues and friends to support his "habit." "When I travel, I go to boutiques and look at their stuff.
Bobos in Paradise: The New Upper Class and How They Got There by David Brooks
1960s counterculture, affirmative action, Community Supported Agriculture, David Brooks, Donald Trump, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, George Gilder, haute couture, haute cuisine, income inequality, Jane Jacobs, Jeff Bezos, means of production, Mikhail Gorbachev, New Urbanism, Norman Mailer, place-making, Ralph Waldo Emerson, Robert Bork, Silicon Valley, The Bell Curve by Richard Herrnstein and Charles Murray, The Death and Life of Great American Cities, Thorstein Veblen, Upton Sinclair, upwardly mobile, urban planning, War on Poverty, Yogi Berra
The Birkenstock sandal store around the corner will have a sign in the window pointing out that its wares make nice corporate gifts. As you stroll up the street, you see young parents pushing those all-terrain baby carriages that are popular with the outdoors set. The high-end fashion chain Ann Taylor has its Burlington outlet cheek by jowl with the Peace and Justice Store, nicely showing how haute couture now cohabits effortlessly with hippie thrift-shop eclecticism. The pedestrian mall is lined with upscale candy, muffin, and ice cream stores. There are any number of stores with playful names like Madhatter and Muddy Waters. Ironic allusions and oppressive wordplay are key ingredients to the Latte Town sensibility, where people are not shy about showing off the cultural literacy (the University of Vermont sits up on the hill in Burlington, looking down on the commercial center and Lake Champlain beyond.)
affirmative action, Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, corporate governance, David Brooks, East Village, friendly fire, haute couture, illegal immigration, immigration reform, liberation theology, medical residency, New Journalism, obamacare, payday loans, postnationalism / post nation state, pre–internet, uranium enrichment, yellow journalism, young professional
After the first set of weddings, which involved twenty-five couples, Mayor West told Crampton, “I am willing to go to jail to hold these marriages,” and added, “This is a stand any decent American should take.” Some of the weddings received cloying coverage. “Rushing Out of the Closet and Down the Aisle” described a retired U.S. Army major who was marrying a Dutch-born “sometime designer of haute couture accessories for pets.” The two had wanted more time to plan but decided that seizing the opportunity was wise. The Dutchman called his wedding day “the greatest day of his life.” He was grateful “to Mayor Jason West for permitting me to make a public declaration of my love for Jeff. Jeff and I sat down in the front of the bus for the first time and began a new phase of our lives together.” A Times editorial of March 7 cheered local officials such as Mayor Newsom and Mayor West for pushing the next step in civil rights:To the Virginia judge who ruled that Mildred Jeter, a black woman, and Richard Loving, a white man, could not marry, the reason was self-evident.
My Life as a Quant: Reflections on Physics and Finance by Emanuel Derman
Berlin Wall, bioinformatics, Black-Scholes formula, Brownian motion, capital asset pricing model, Claude Shannon: information theory, Donald Knuth, Emanuel Derman, fixed income, Gödel, Escher, Bach, haute couture, hiring and firing, implied volatility, interest rate derivative, Jeff Bezos, John Meriwether, John von Neumann, law of one price, linked data, Long Term Capital Management, moral hazard, Murray Gell-Mann, Myron Scholes, Paul Samuelson, pre–internet, publish or perish, quantitative trading / quantitative ﬁnance, Richard Feynman, Sharpe ratio, statistical arbitrage, statistical model, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs, stochastic volatility, technology bubble, the new new thing, transaction costs, value at risk, volatility smile, Y2K, yield curve, zero-coupon bond, zero-sum game
(Since the Black-Scholes model is only a model, and since no model in finance is 100 percent correct, it is impossible for them to entirely cancel their risk.) Dealers charge a fee (the option premium) for this construction and deconstruction, just as chefs at fancy restaurants charge you not only for the raw ingredients but also for the recipes and skills they use, or as couturiers bill you for the materials and talents they employ in creating haute couture dresses. LIFE AS A QUANT The history of quants on Wall Street is the history of the ways in which practitioners and academics have refined and extended the BlackScholes model. The last thirty years have seen it applied not just to stock options but to options on just about anything you can think of, from Treasury bonds and foreign exchange to the weather. Behind all these extensions is the same original insight: It is possible to tailor securities with the precise risk desired out of a mix of simpler ingredients using a recipe that specifies how to continually readjust their proportions.The readjustment depends on the exact way in which the ingredients' prices move.
The Rapture of the Nerds by Cory Doctorow, Charles Stross
3D printing, Ayatollah Khomeini, butterfly effect, cognitive dissonance, combinatorial explosion, complexity theory, Credit Default Swap, dematerialisation, Drosophila, epigenetics, Extropian, gravity well, greed is good, haute couture, hive mind, margin call, negative equity, phenotype, Plutocrats, plutocrats, rent-seeking, Richard Feynman, Richard Feynman, telepresence, Turing machine, Turing test, union organizing
Where a terrestrial establishment would have a central bar area and booths around the periphery, this establishment has a kilometers-wide expanse of glassy floor and a central bar that features such nifty magnification features that stools spring up like self-similar leather mushrooms as you approach any given spot: in the distance, near the walls, gales howl among the hyperspace gates leading to the private areas (which feature planetary themes, so that the subsurface oceanic caverns of Enceladus adjoin the fiery sands of long-dismantled Venus). The dress code is similarly over the top, as Huw realizes when she notices the djinni is wearing an antique Armani suit. She’s no expert on haute couture: she realizes she probably ought to recognize the designer of the cocktail dress the scanner selected for her, but she’s too busy fighting with the insane footwear to care about such minor details. Mid-1980s: Greed is good. It seems a fitting context in which to discuss the identity of a person or persons who might be trying to steal a planet’s worth of computronium. The whole thing is so massively, monstrously over the top—like a nuclear aircraft carrier tricked out as a private yacht—that it takes Huw a moment to realize that she and the djinni are alone.
A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby
Mr Eric Newby, I have since learned, is the author of an exciting sea-log, The Last Grain Race, an account of how at the age of eighteen he signed on as an apprentice of the Finnish barque Moshulu, lived in the fo’c’sle as the only Englishman, worked the ship, rounded both capes under sail in all the vicissitudes of the historic and now extinct passage from Australia to the United Kingdom of the grain-carrying windjammers. His career in the army was heroic and romantic. The bravado and endurance which had briefly made him a sailor were turned to the King’s service. After the war he went into the most improbable of trades, haute couture. It would strain the imagination to picture this stalwart young adventurer selling women’s clothes. We are relieved of the difficulty by his own deliciously funny description, which immediately captivates the reader of the opening chapters of A Short Walk. One can only use the absurdly trite phrase ‘the call of the wild’ to describe the peculiar impetus which carried Mr Newby from Mayfair to the wild mountains of Afghanistan.
You Are What You Speak: Grammar Grouches, Language Laws, and the Politics of Identity by Robert Lane Greene
anti-communist, British Empire, centre right, discovery of DNA, European colonialism, facts on the ground, haute couture, illegal immigration, Mahatma Gandhi, Mikhail Gorbachev, Parag Khanna, Ronald Reagan, Sapir-Whorf hypothesis, Steven Pinker, Yogi Berra, zero-sum game
We would not be able to visit a café or brasserie. There would be no aperitifs or hors d’oeuvres—in fact there would be no restaurants. We should forget the table d’hôte; there is no question of the à la carte instead. There would be no left- or right-hand side of the menu and no nouvelle cuisine. Bon viveurs would be banned. One would not be able to shower one’s fiancée with bouquets, meet at a secret rendezvous, or buy her haute couture clothes. There would be great difficulties in having a ménage-à-trois. Crime passionel would be out of the question and negligée would make a liaison dangereuse a little risqué. After another member cried out “guillotine him!” Steen’s fines-for-French measure was duly put to a vote and rejected, 149–45. By whatever measure—countries where they are official, number of first-language speakers, number of second-language speakers, volume of written publications, or the slipperier quantity we might call simply prestige—English is the most successful language on Earth, and French is the only other with a global reach in the same league, despite the fact that other languages have more native speakers.
Ayatollah Khomeini, bank run, Berlin Wall, Bonfire of the Vanities, Bretton Woods, BRICs, call centre, Fall of the Berlin Wall, falling living standards, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, haute couture, mass immigration, Mikhail Gorbachev, mutually assured destruction, Ronald Reagan, Ronald Reagan: Tear down this wall, union organizing
Everything was gilt, mirrors and brocaded wallpaper—glitter without style, coherence or taste. There were no books. The paintings were of reclining nudes and cherubs, milkmaids frisking with lambs and little children. Upstairs, empty boxes of perfume and cosmetics littered the floor of Elena’s boudoir: Arpège, Nina Ricci, Mystère de Rochas. A can of Woolite rolled in a corner. Boxes of Palmolive hemorrhoidal balm crunched underfoot. Despite the closets full of haute-couture gowns, Elena Ceausescu seems to have preferred heavy woolen suits and metallic, stub-nosed shoes with square, no-nonsense heels. There were hundreds of pairs. Gauntly thin, she appears to have obsessed about her weight. Her pink-and-gold bath had four scales. A man in white athletic shoes and a leather jacket rummaged in the drawers of her nightstand. Finding a photo of the Ceausescus with their children, he balled it up and threw it into her rose-tinted bidet.
Family Trade by Stross, Charles
Tell me all about it. Everything. Don’t leave anything out. My gods—I am so glad you’re here and safe now.” He hugged her. “Tell me everything. In your own time.” ‘Time is the one thing I don’t think we’ve got.” She leaned against him. “Someone sent Olga an unwelcome gift—a rape-o-gram. Luckily for me, but unluckily for the thug concerned, Olga’s childlike enthusiasms include embroidery, violins, haute couture, and semiautomatic weapons. She found a commission in his back pocket, with my seal on it and a purse of coin sufficient to pay the kind of maidenprice Oliver might ask for someone he really didn’t like much. Roland, I didn’t even know I had a seal.” ” ‘A seal.’” He looked away just as someone knocked on the door. Miriam jumped. “I’ll get it—” “No! Wait!” Miriam scrabbled for her jacket, fumbled in its pockets.
Albert Einstein, Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic, Clayton Christensen, data acquisition, delayed gratification, deliberate practice, fear of failure, Google Earth, haute couture, impulse control, Isaac Newton, Jeff Bezos, jimmy wales, Kevin Kelly, Lao Tzu, life extension, lifelogging, Maui Hawaii, pattern recognition, Ray Kurzweil, risk tolerance, rolodex, selective serotonin reuptake inhibitor (SSRI), Silicon Valley, Steve Jobs, Walter Mischel, X Prize
Again, it’s hard to say for certain, but it’s worth pointing out that in 2012 Honnold repeated his Half Dome solo. This time twice as fast: finishing the route in one hour twenty-two minutes. 12 Flow to Abundance STRATOS The balloon was a marvel, ghostly silver, as thin as a dry-cleaning bag. Partially inflated, at the Roswell, New Mexico, launch site, it looked not unlike an amoeba dressed in haute couture. In the lower atmosphere, at full height, it rose a majestic fifty-five stories. In the stratosphere, pancaked by pressure, it stretched wider than a football field. And the stratosphere was where skydiver Felix Baumgartner was heading. The date was October 14, 2012. The plan was for Baumgartner to ride that balloon some twenty-four miles above the Earth, higher than anyone has ever ridden a balloon before.
Blink: The Power of Thinking Without Thinking by Malcolm Gladwell
affirmative action, airport security, Albert Einstein, complexity theory, David Brooks, East Village, haute couture, Kevin Kelly, medical malpractice, medical residency, Menlo Park, new economy, pattern recognition, phenotype, Ronald Reagan, Silicon Valley, Stephen Hawking, theory of mind, young professional
In 1996, Hush Puppies won the prize for best accessory at the Council of Fashion Designers awards dinner at Lincoln Center, and the president of the firm stood up on the stage with Calvin Klein and Donna Karan and accepted an award for an achievement that—as he would be the first to admit—his company had almost nothing to do with. Hush Puppies had suddenly exploded, and it all started with a handful of kids in the East Village and Soho. How did that happen? Those first few kids, whoever they were, weren’t deliberately trying to promote Hush Puppies. They were wearing them precisely because no one else would wear them. Then the fad spread to two fashion designers who used the shoes to peddle something else—haute couture. The shoes were an incidental touch. No one was trying to make Hush Puppies a trend. Yet, somehow, that’s exactly what happened. The shoes passed a certain point in popularity and they tipped. How does a thirty-dollar pair of shoes go from a handful of downtown Manhattan hipsters and designers to every mall in America in the space of two years? 1. There was a time, not very long ago, in the desperately poor New York City neighborhoods of Brownsville and East New York, when the streets would turn into ghost towns at dusk.
The Quantum Thief by Hannu Rajaniemi
That can only mean one thing, and even through his clouded brain Isidore realises he has made a mistake. ‘You are a journalist,’ he says. The momentum is gone, and the water swallows the skipping stone. His head feels heavy. In a world of perfect privacy, there are still analog holes, and publishing newspapers is one of the most lucrative tolerated crimes in the Oubliette. They have been after him ever since his first case with the haute couture thieves. But they have never managed to breach his gevulot. Until now. ‘Yes, I am. Adrian Wu, from Ares Herald.’ He takes out an old-fashioned camera from his bag – another trick to get around gevulot. The flash blinds Isidore for a moment. Isidore hits him. Or tries to: he leaps to his feet and swings wildly, failing to connect. His legs buckle. He grabs the nearest object – the computer monitor on the table – and falls to the floor with it with a crash.
Undoing the Demos: Neoliberalism's Stealth Revolution by Wendy Brown
Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, bitcoin, Branko Milanovic, Capital in the Twenty-First Century by Thomas Piketty, collective bargaining, corporate governance, credit crunch, crowdsourcing, David Brooks, Food sovereignty, haute couture, immigration reform, income inequality, invisible hand, labor-force participation, late capitalism, means of production, new economy, obamacare, occupational segregation, Philip Mirowski, Ronald Reagan, sexual politics, shareholder value, sharing economy, The Chicago School, the market place, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Thomas Malthus, too big to fail, trickle-down economics, Washington Consensus, Wolfgang Streeck, young professional, zero-sum game
Prominent modern and contemporary economists rarely gender this creature, and when they occasion- re v isin g f o u c au lt 99 ally glance in the direction of sexual difference, it is generally to argue or imply that physiology is irrelevant to the form, though not to the content of rationally choosing market animals. Adam Smith’s market creature, Gary Becker’s human capital, quotidian rational choosers — none of these are specified as male or presumed gendered, even as neoliberals recognize the possibility of gender-specific attributes on which certain kinds of human capital may be built, for example, football players or haute couture models. Indeed, the putatively generic character of rational choice and the putative advantages for all of a gendered division of labor between family and marketplace are the skillfully twinned arguments animating Becker’s remarkable book, A Treatise on the Family. However, feminists know well that when scholars presume their subject has no gender, this is far from the last word on the matter.
The Sellout: A Novel by Paul Beatty
affirmative action, cognitive dissonance, conceptual framework, desegregation, El Camino Real, haute couture, illegal immigration, Lao Tzu, late fees, mass incarceration, p-value, publish or perish, rolodex, Ronald Reagan, Rosa Parks, telemarketer, theory of mind, War on Poverty, white flight, yellow journalism
I swear to God, sometimes I wake up in the middle of the night dreaming about your fucking plums and the juicy-ass pomegranates. I almost didn’t break up with you because I kept thinking, Where am I going to get fucking cantaloupes that taste like a multiple orgasm?” We’d rekindled our childhood friendship on the bus. I was seventeen, carless and clueless. She was twenty-one and fine enough to make that ill-fitting seaweed-brown RTD uniform look like haute-couture fashion. Except for the badge. No one, not even John Wayne, can pull off a badge. Back then she drove the #434—downtown to Zuma Beach. A route that once you got past the Santa Monica pier was mostly riderless, except for the burnouts, bums, and maids who serviced the Malibu estates and oceanfront bungalows. I surfed Venice and Santa Monica. Mostly Station 24. Sometimes 20. No real reason. The waves were shit.
Places of the Heart: The Psychogeography of Everyday Life by Colin Ellard
augmented reality, Benoit Mandelbrot, Berlin Wall, Broken windows theory, Buckminster Fuller, carbon footprint, commoditize, crowdsourcing, Frank Gehry, Google Glasses, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, Howard Rheingold, Internet of things, Jaron Lanier, mandelbrot fractal, Marshall McLuhan, Masdar, mass immigration, megastructure, more computing power than Apollo, Oculus Rift, Peter Eisenman, RFID, Richard Florida, risk tolerance, sentiment analysis, smart cities, the built environment, theory of mind, urban decay, urban planning, urban sprawl, Victor Gruen
To the alarm of the students who controlled the machines and managed the wires connecting the pieces of gear together, Beesley was soon running from place to place, crawling along the floor to get underneath things, lying on his back on the floor looking up at ceilings, consuming my simulation with happy, childlike curiosity while those around him scurried about trying to keep wires and computers in check. Beesley’s artistic works are both moving and thought-provoking, but they seem far-flung from the bread-and-butter design of buildings like schools, banks, offices, or homes. Like the haute couture world of fashion, in which we see models walking runways in outfits that most of us would not be caught dead wearing in the street, Beesley’s responsive sculptures can be thought of as a set of signposts to the future: the bleeding edge of what design in a wired world has in store for us, and one of the main subjects of this book. Hylozoic Soil provides a high-impact object lesson in the extent to which a thing can develop a two-way emotional relationship with a human being.
Lonely Planet France by Lonely Planet Publications
banking crisis, bike sharing scheme, British Empire, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, Columbine, double helix, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, haute couture, haute cuisine, Henri Poincaré, Honoré de Balzac, illegal immigration, Jacquard loom, Jacquard loom, Joseph-Marie Jacquard, Louis Blériot, Louis Pasteur, low cost carrier, Mahatma Gandhi, mass immigration, Murano, Venice glass, ride hailing / ride sharing, sensible shoes, Silicon Valley, supervolcano, trade route, urban renewal, urban sprawl, V2 rocket
Exchange Rates Australia A$1 €0.79 Canada C$1 €0.79 Japan ¥100 €0.98 New Zealand NZ$1 €0.63 UK UK£1 €1.24 US US$1 €0.77 For current exchange rates, see www.xe.com Important Numbers France country code 33 International access code 00 Europe-wide emergency 112 Ambulance (SAMU) 15 Police 17 Arriving in France » Paris – Aéroport Roissy Charles de Gaulle Trains, Buses & RER – to Paris centre every 15 to 30 minutes, 5am to 11pm Night Bus – hourly, 12.30am to 5.30am. Taxis – €50–€60; 30 minutes to Paris centre » Paris – Aéroport d’Orly Orlyval Rail, RER & Buses – at least every 15 minutes, 5am to 11pm Taxis – €45–€60; 25 minutes to Paris centre In France to Shop! OK, so Paris is the bee’s knees for luxury goods like haute couture, high-quality fashion accessories (Hermès silk scarf, Madame?), lingerie, perfume and cosmetics. Lovely as they are, they most probably aren’t any cheaper to buy in France than at home. Time your trip right and pick up designer and street fashion for a snip of the usual price at France’s soldes (sales), by law held twice a year for three weeks in January and again in July. Other times look for the words degriffés (name-brand products with the labels cut out), bonnes affaires (cut-price deals) and dépôt-vente (secondhand).
To ensure you get what you want, use these phrases when booking by telephone or email. » Hello. Bonjour. » I’d like to book a room. Je voudrais réserver une chambre. » a single room une chambre à un lit » a double room une chambre avec un grand lit » My name is ... Je m’appelle... » from ... to... (date) du... au... » How much is it? C’est combien? » per night/person par nuit/personne » Thank you (very much). Merci (beaucoup). What to Wear Paris, cradle of haute couture, is chic, so don your smarter threads (think Parisian, think accessories!). The further south you go, the more relaxed fashion becomes, although it’s still sassy, especially on the French Riviera. Avoid shorts and flip-flops unless you’re at the beach, and dress up rather than down at restaurants, clubs and bars – no jeans and trainers, unless you’re at the local village bar. Bring a sweater (jumper) and rain jacket, and something to protect your skin from peckish mosquitoes.
The tower is also an ideal spot to board a river cruise (or the hop-on, hop-off Batobus) along the Seine, and float past Parisian landmarks like the Louvre and Notre Dame. Other vantage points perfect for acquainting yourself with the city include the rooftops of the Centre Pompidou cultural centre and the art nouveau department store Galeries Lafayette, as well as the steps of Sacré-Cœur basilica. Top Five Signature Splurges » Flit between flagship haute couture (high fashion) houses in the Triangle d’Or (Golden Triangle; bordered by avs Georges V, Champs-Élysées and Montaigne), St-Germain’s storied shops, and emerging designers in the Haut Marais (Click here ). » Feast on baiser Ladurée (layered almond cake with strawberries and cream) at Champs-Élysées patisserie Ladurée (Click here ). » Concoct your own personal fragrance at Le Studio des Parfums ( Click here ). » Sip a decadent hot chocolate at salon de thé (tea room) Angelina (Click here ). » Spend an evening at Paris’ oldest and most palatial opera house, the Palais Garnier ( Click here ).
The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test by Tom Wolfe
Asilomar, Bonfire of the Vanities, Buckminster Fuller, edge city, Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test, Golden Gate Park, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, Menlo Park, Ronald Reagan, stakhanovite, Stewart Brand, strikebreaker, the scientific method, Thorstein Veblen
The guy brings charges against Kesey for ruining his engine and Kesey ends up in juvenile court before a judge and tries to tell him how it is at Gregg's Drive-In on a Saturday night: The Life—that feeling—The Life—the late 1940s early 1950s American Teenage Drive-in Life was precisely what it was all about—but how could you tell anyone about it? But of course!—the feeling—out here at night, free, with the motor running and the adrenaline flowing, cruising in the neon glories of the new American night—it was very Heaven to be the first wave of the most extraordinary kids in the history of the world—only 15, 16, 17 years old, dressed in the haute couture of pink Oxford shirts, sharp pants, snaky half-inch belts, fast shoes—with all this Straight-6 and V-8 power underneath and all this neon glamour overhead, which somehow tied in with the technological superheroics of the jet, TV, atomic subs, ultrasonics—Postwar American suburbs—glorious world! and the hell with the intellectual bad-mouthers of America's tailfin civilization... They couldn't know what it was like or else they had it cultivated out of them—the feeling—to be very Superkids !
Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, British Empire, call centre, colonial rule, Columbine, cuban missile crisis, dematerialisation, Deng Xiaoping, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, Donald Trump, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, haute cuisine, megastructure, Mikhail Gorbachev, new economy, New Urbanism, oil shock, Peter Eisenman, Ronald Reagan, Socratic dialogue, urban planning, urban renewal, V2 rocket, Victor Gruen
Miralles was an architect of what might be called an old-fashioned kind; his work was full of symbolic and representational qualities. He had a romantic vision that, had he lived, might have encouraged others in an exploration of these issues. When he died, his career cut cruelly short at just 45, he was on the edge of becoming a major figure, but without having yet completed the Edinburgh parliament that would demonstrate that he offered much more than promise. This is haute-couture architecture: every door, every handle, every window, every light fitting has been designed as if it were a one-off, and it was almost as difficult to build as a Gaudí cathedral. Miralles designed spaces that surprise you as you move from one to another, and where you can suddenly find yourself looking up at the sky, or across another part of the parliament complex to see the landscape beyond.
Civilization: The West and the Rest by Niall Ferguson
Admiral Zheng, agricultural Revolution, Albert Einstein, Andrei Shleifer, Atahualpa, Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, BRICs, British Empire, clean water, collective bargaining, colonial rule, conceptual framework, Copley Medal, corporate governance, creative destruction, credit crunch, David Ricardo: comparative advantage, Dean Kamen, delayed gratification, Deng Xiaoping, discovery of the americas, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, European colonialism, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Francisco Pizarro, full employment, Hans Lippershey, haute couture, Hernando de Soto, income inequality, invention of movable type, invisible hand, Isaac Newton, James Hargreaves, James Watt: steam engine, John Harrison: Longitude, joint-stock company, Joseph Schumpeter, Kitchen Debate, land reform, land tenure, liberal capitalism, Louis Pasteur, Mahatma Gandhi, market bubble, Martin Wolf, mass immigration, means of production, megacity, Mikhail Gorbachev, new economy, Pearl River Delta, Pierre-Simon Laplace, probability theory / Blaise Pascal / Pierre de Fermat, profit maximization, purchasing power parity, quantitative easing, rent-seeking, reserve currency, road to serfdom, Ronald Reagan, savings glut, Scramble for Africa, Silicon Valley, South China Sea, sovereign wealth fund, special economic zone, spice trade, spinning jenny, Steve Jobs, Steven Pinker, The Great Moderation, the market place, the scientific method, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Thomas Kuhn: the structure of scientific revolutions, Thomas Malthus, Thorstein Veblen, total factor productivity, trade route, transaction costs, transatlantic slave trade, transatlantic slave trade, upwardly mobile, uranium enrichment, wage slave, Washington Consensus, women in the workforce, World Values Survey
The results of were published in 1941 as USDA Miscellaneous Publication 454, Women’s Measurements for Garment and Pattern Construction. Standardized sizes allowed civilian clothes, as well as uniforms, to be mass-produced and sold ‘off the peg’ or ‘ready to wear’. Within a matter of a few decades, it was only the clothes of the wealthy elite that were tailor-made: men’s suits from Savile Row and women’s haute couture from Paris and Milan. In the post-war United States the consumer society became a phenomenon of the masses, significantly diminishing the sartorial differences between the social classes. This was part of a generalized levelling up that followed the war. In 1928 the top 1 per cent of the population had received nearly 20 per cent of income. From 1952 until 1982 it was consistently less than 9 per cent, below the equivalent share going to the top 1 per cent in France.85 Better educational opportunities for the returning soldiers coupled with a wave of house-building in the suburbs translated into a marked improvement in the quality of life.
Moscow, December 25th, 1991 by Conor O'Clery
Anton Chekhov, Berlin Wall, central bank independence, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, Donald Trump, Doomsday Clock, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, haute couture, land reform, Mikhail Gorbachev, Ronald Reagan, Sinatra Doctrine, The Chicago School
She made a stunning impression in London in 1984, when she appeared at an evening function in a stylish white satin dress and gold lame sandals with chain straps, and held forth on English literature with British ministers. In Washington she discussed world affairs with prominent American women at the Washington home of socialite Pamela Harrison. Woman’s Own magazine in the United Kingdom made her “Woman of the Year” in 1987. The masses inevitably resented her celebrity. The Russian women who endured harsh living conditions and had no access to haute couture disliked her as much as the Russian men reared in the domestic tradition of domostroi, the practice dating back to Ivan the Terrible under which husbands dominated and wives obeyed. Her elegance was a reminder of the existence of special shops with luxury clothes that were inaccessible to ordinary citizens. She became the subject of frequent gossip. Gorbachev complained in his memoirs that she supposedly went shopping with an American Express card when they didn’t know what an American Express card was, and that she allegedly spent large sums on fashion to compete with Nancy Reagan when all her clothes were made by seamstress Tamara Makeeva in Moscow.
Microtrends: The Small Forces Behind Tomorrow's Big Changes by Mark Penn, E. Kinney Zalesne
affirmative action, Albert Einstein, Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, big-box store, call centre, corporate governance, David Brooks, Donald Trump, extreme commuting, Exxon Valdez, feminist movement, glass ceiling, God and Mammon, Gordon Gekko, haute couture, hygiene hypothesis, illegal immigration, immigration reform, index card, Isaac Newton, job satisfaction, labor-force participation, late fees, life extension, low skilled workers, mobile money, new economy, RAND corporation, Renaissance Technologies, Ronald Reagan, Rosa Parks, Rubik’s Cube, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Steve Jobs, Superbowl ad, the payments system, Thomas L Friedman, upwardly mobile, uranium enrichment, urban renewal, War on Poverty, white picket fence, women in the workforce, Y2K
In the crafts marketplace itself, there is likely to be a growing demand for richer colors, jazzier patterns, and “fashion yarns,” which are fuzzier, furrier, lacier, and more metallic than the ones that composed your old gray crew neck from L.L. Bean. According to the Craft Yarn Council, between 2004 and 2005 alone, fashion yarn purchases rose 56 percent. Within the world of fashion, we should expect more knits on the runway, and more handmade looks in haute couture. I, for one, didn’t know they could make hand-knit bikini tops—but then, until recently, I also didn’t know that ten new Knitting “Meet-Ups” were forming per week in cities all over America. However, the real significance of Teen Knitters is that techie clichés notwithstanding, many of today’s kids have longer attention spans than we give them credit for; and they are passionate about creating—not just cyberprofiles, but also tangible, useful products that mark their presence in the world.
The Science of Fear: How the Culture of Fear Manipulates Your Brain by Daniel Gardner
Atul Gawande, availability heuristic, Black Swan, Cass Sunstein, citizen journalism, cognitive bias, cognitive dissonance, Columbine, correlation does not imply causation, Daniel Kahneman / Amos Tversky, David Brooks, Doomsday Clock, feminist movement, haute couture, hindsight bias, illegal immigration, Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), mandatory minimum, medical residency, Mikhail Gorbachev, millennium bug, moral panic, mutually assured destruction, nuclear winter, placebo effect, Ralph Nader, RAND corporation, Ronald Reagan, Stephen Hawking, Steven Levy, Steven Pinker, the scientific method, Tunguska event, uranium enrichment, Y2K, young professional
And since our brains really make us what we are, the conclusion to be drawn from this is unavoidable and a little unsettling. We are cavemen. Or cavepersons, if you prefer. Whatever the nomenclature, we sophisticated moderns living in a world of glass, steel, and fiber optics are no different, in a fundamental sense, than the prehistoric humans for whom campfires were the latest in high tech and bison hides were haute couture. This is the central insight of evolutionary psychology—a field that came into prominence only in the last thirty years, although Darwin himself saw the implications of evolution for the study of human thoughts and actions. Our minds evolved to cope with what evolutionary psychologists call the “Environment of Evolutionary Adaptation.” If we wish to understand the workings of the mind today, we have to first examine the lives of ancient humans on the savannas of Africa.
A Declaration of the Independence of Cyberspace, AI winter, airport security, Apple II, artificial general intelligence, Asilomar, augmented reality, autonomous vehicles, basic income, Baxter: Rethink Robotics, Bill Duvall, bioinformatics, Brewster Kahle, Burning Man, call centre, cellular automata, Chris Urmson, Claude Shannon: information theory, Clayton Christensen, clean water, cloud computing, collective bargaining, computer age, computer vision, crowdsourcing, Danny Hillis, DARPA: Urban Challenge, data acquisition, Dean Kamen, deskilling, don't be evil, Douglas Engelbart, Douglas Engelbart, Douglas Hofstadter, Dynabook, Edward Snowden, Elon Musk, Erik Brynjolfsson, factory automation, From Mathematics to the Technologies of Life and Death, future of work, Galaxy Zoo, Google Glasses, Google X / Alphabet X, Grace Hopper, Gunnar Myrdal, Gödel, Escher, Bach, Hacker Ethic, haute couture, hive mind, hypertext link, indoor plumbing, industrial robot, information retrieval, Internet Archive, Internet of things, invention of the wheel, Jacques de Vaucanson, Jaron Lanier, Jeff Bezos, job automation, John Conway, John Markoff, John Maynard Keynes: Economic Possibilities for our Grandchildren, John Maynard Keynes: technological unemployment, John von Neumann, Kevin Kelly, knowledge worker, Kodak vs Instagram, labor-force participation, loose coupling, Marc Andreessen, Mark Zuckerberg, Marshall McLuhan, medical residency, Menlo Park, Mother of all demos, natural language processing, new economy, Norbert Wiener, PageRank, pattern recognition, pre–internet, RAND corporation, Ray Kurzweil, Richard Stallman, Robert Gordon, Rodney Brooks, Sand Hill Road, Second Machine Age, self-driving car, semantic web, shareholder value, side project, Silicon Valley, Silicon Valley startup, Singularitarianism, skunkworks, Skype, social software, speech recognition, stealth mode startup, Stephen Hawking, Steve Ballmer, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, Steven Levy, Stewart Brand, strong AI, superintelligent machines, technological singularity, Ted Nelson, telemarketer, telepresence, telepresence robot, Tenerife airport disaster, The Coming Technological Singularity, the medium is the message, Thorstein Veblen, Turing test, Vannevar Bush, Vernor Vinge, Watson beat the top human players on Jeopardy!, Whole Earth Catalog, William Shockley: the traitorous eight, zero-sum game
The arrival of machine intelligence had been forecast for decades in the writings of science-fiction writers, so much so that when the technology actually began to appear, it seemed anticlimactic. In the late 1980s, anyone wandering through the cavernous Grand Central Station in Manhattan would have noticed that almost a third of the morning commuters were wearing Sony Walkman headsets. Today, of course, the Walkmans have been replaced by Apple’s iconic bright white iPhone headphones, and there are some who believe that technology haute couture will inevitably lead to a future version of Google Glass—the search engine maker’s first effort to augment reality—or perhaps more ambitious and immersive systems. Like the frog in the pot, we have been desensitized to the changes wrought by the rapid increase and proliferation of information technology. The Walkman, the iPhone, and Google Glass all prefigure a world where the line between what is human and who is machine begins to blur.
The Joy of Clojure by Michael Fogus, Chris Houser
The authors assume you’re fearless and, importantly, equipped with a search engine. You’ll want to have Google handy as you go through the examples. The authors blaze through many of the classics of both functional programming and industry programming in a whirlwind tour of Clojure that feels at times more like a class-five tropical storm. You’ll learn fast! Our industry, the global programming community, is fashion-driven to a degree that would embarrass haute couture designers from New York to Paris. We’re slaves to fashion. Fashion dictates the programming languages people study in school, the languages employers hire for, the languages that get to be in books on shelves. A naive outsider might wonder if the quality of a language matters a little, just a teeny bit at least, but in the real world fashion trumps all. So nobody could be more surprised than I that a Lisp dialect has suddenly become fashionable again.
Jennifer Morgue by Stross, Charles
call centre, correlation does not imply causation, disintermediation, dumpster diving, Etonian, haute couture, interchangeable parts, Maui Hawaii, mutually assured destruction, planetary scale, RFID, Silicon Valley, Skype, slashdot, stem cell, telepresence, traveling salesman, Turing machine
He's got a high enough security clearance to be aware what it's capable of, and his people are trying to suborn various intelligence organizations, like in Darmstadt. He's playing some kind of endgame and you don't like the smell and neither does the Black Chamber, which explains me and Ramona. Am I right so far" Angleton nods minutely. "I should remind you that Billington is extraordinarily rich and has fingers in a surprising number of pies. For example, by way of his current wife — his third — he owns a cosmetics and haute couture empire; in addition to IT corporations he owns shipping, aviation, and banking interests. Your assignment — and Ramona's — is to get close to Billington. Ideally you should contrive to get yourself invited aboard his yacht, the Mabuse, while Ramona remains in touch with your backup team and the local head of station. Your technical backups are Pinky and Brains, your muscle backup is Boris, and you're to liaise with our Caribbean station chief, Jack Griffin.
Framing Class: Media Representations of Wealth and Poverty in America by Diana Elizabeth Kendall
Bernie Madoff, blue-collar work, Bonfire of the Vanities, call centre, David Brooks, declining real wages, Donald Trump, employer provided health coverage, ending welfare as we know it, fixed income, framing effect, Georg Cantor, Gordon Gekko, greed is good, haute couture, housing crisis, illegal immigration, income inequality, lump of labour, mortgage tax deduction, new economy, payday loans, Ponzi scheme, Ray Oldenburg, Richard Florida, Ronald Reagan, Saturday Night Live, telemarketer, The Great Good Place, Thorstein Veblen, trickle-down economics, union organizing, upwardly mobile, urban planning, working poor
Since the above description of Thrash’s parties was written, she has also planned major events to raise big bucks for UNICEF and the American Friends of the Louvre, as described here: When Houston’s Becca Cason Thrash sends out an invitation with a dress code of “High Black Tie,” you better follow directions, and the guests attending her 9781442202238.print.indb 36 2/10/11 10:46 AM Twenty-Four-Karat Gold Frames 37 gala benefiting American Friends of the Louvre did not disappoint. Fans and friends of Becca—a group ranging from Princess Napoleon to Charlie Rose— flew in from Miami, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Washington, D.C., New York, Toronto, Paris, and all over Texas to raise funds and glasses of Dom Pérignon in her spectacular 20,000-square-foot, glass-walled home. The highlight: a recreation of last month’s Christian Lacroix Haute Couture show that was presented on a mirrored runway built on top of an indoor swimming pool. Said Becca: “I had to take out a wall of my house to accommodate everyone!”58 The privileged women who frequently plan these social or charitable events for the wealthy and well connected also believe that this sort of media coverage is crucial for the success of the event.59 Evidence of this is found in columns like “Boldface Names” in the New York Times, in the lifestyle sections of local newspapers, and in neighborhood newspapers (such as Park Cities People in Dallas) and on numerous websites (such as Style.com).
Albert Einstein, Asian financial crisis, Barry Marshall: ulcers, Berlin Wall, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, California gold rush, complexity theory, computer age, constrained optimization, corporate governance, corporate social responsibility, correlation does not imply causation, Daniel Kahneman / Amos Tversky, David Ricardo: comparative advantage, Donald Trump, double entry bookkeeping, double helix, Edward Lloyd's coffeehouse, equity premium, Ernest Rutherford, European colonialism, experimental economics, Exxon Valdez, failed state, financial innovation, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, George Akerlof, George Gilder, greed is good, Gunnar Myrdal, haute couture, illegal immigration, income inequality, industrial cluster, information asymmetry, intangible asset, invention of the telephone, invention of the wheel, invisible hand, John Meriwether, John Nash: game theory, John von Neumann, Kenneth Arrow, Kevin Kelly, knowledge economy, labour market flexibility, late capitalism, light touch regulation, Long Term Capital Management, loss aversion, Mahatma Gandhi, market bubble, market clearing, market fundamentalism, means of production, Menlo Park, Mikhail Gorbachev, money: store of value / unit of account / medium of exchange, moral hazard, Myron Scholes, Naomi Klein, Nash equilibrium, new economy, oil shale / tar sands, oil shock, Pareto efficiency, Paul Samuelson, pets.com, popular electronics, price discrimination, price mechanism, prisoner's dilemma, profit maximization, purchasing power parity, QWERTY keyboard, Ralph Nader, RAND corporation, random walk, rent-seeking, Right to Buy, risk tolerance, road to serfdom, Ronald Coase, Ronald Reagan, second-price auction, shareholder value, Silicon Valley, Simon Kuznets, South Sea Bubble, Steve Jobs, telemarketer, The Chicago School, The Death and Life of Great American Cities, The Market for Lemons, The Nature of the Firm, the new new thing, The Predators' Ball, The Wealth of Nations by Adam Smith, Thorstein Veblen, total factor productivity, transaction costs, tulip mania, urban decay, Vilfredo Pareto, Washington Consensus, women in the workforce, yield curve, yield management
The end of Jean-Marie Messier came first, however, and a new management team was appointed to dismantle his empire and repay its crushing debts. A more successful model of international diversification is the oil services company Schlumberger, which probably also provides any smart card you have in your purse or pocket. Other global companies based in France-such as L'Oreal and LVMH distribute the productsfragrances, wines, haute couture-traditionally associated with France. Carrefour is, after Wal-Mart, the world's second-largest retailer; Aventis makes many of the pills in the bags with the green cross; St. Gobain makes glass and other construction materials for a global marketplace: look at the label etched on your car's windshield. But the French economy depends much more on small and medium-size enterprises than Britain or the United States, and although there are tiresome regulatory obstacles and fiscal burdens to establishing new businesses, there are many of them.
Second World: Empires and Influence in the New Global Order by Parag Khanna
Admiral Zheng, affirmative action, anti-communist, Asian financial crisis, Bartolomé de las Casas, Branko Milanovic, British Empire, call centre, capital controls, central bank independence, cognitive dissonance, colonial rule, complexity theory, continuation of politics by other means, crony capitalism, Deng Xiaoping, Dissolution of the Soviet Union, Donald Trump, Edward Glaeser, energy security, European colonialism, facts on the ground, failed state, flex fuel, Francis Fukuyama: the end of history, friendly fire, Gini coefficient, global reserve currency, global supply chain, haute couture, Hernando de Soto, illegal immigration, income inequality, informal economy, invisible hand, Islamic Golden Age, Khyber Pass, knowledge economy, land reform, low skilled workers, mass immigration, means of production, megacity, Monroe Doctrine, oil shale / tar sands, oil shock, open borders, open economy, Parag Khanna, Pax Mongolica, Pearl River Delta, pirate software, Plutonomy: Buying Luxury, Explaining Global Imbalances, Potemkin village, price stability, race to the bottom, RAND corporation, reserve currency, rising living standards, Ronald Reagan, Silicon Valley, Skype, South China Sea, special economic zone, stem cell, Stephen Hawking, Thomas L Friedman, trade route, trickle-down economics, uranium enrichment, urban renewal, Washington Consensus, women in the workforce
And most fundamentally, both people and nations obey Abraham Maslow’s “hierarchy of needs,” prioritizing deficit needs (the physiological demands of satisfying hunger and thirst), then security needs (shelter and stability), and finally being needs (the sense of belonging, love, respect and recognition).34 Democratic governance falls into this latter category, for meeting basic survival and economic needs is what gives people the means to participate actively in democratic politics.35 Pure democracy is like haute couture: One can admire it, but it is not practical for everyday use. The world’s most compelling ideology is neither democracy nor capitalism nor any other ism, but success. All societies pursue the one goal Adam Smith identified in his 1759 Theory of Moral Sentiments: “bettering our condition.” Lacking absolute knowledge, people think relationally: What is the next best thing or status one can achieve?
What's Left?: How Liberals Lost Their Way by Nick Cohen
anti-communist, Ayatollah Khomeini, Berlin Wall, Boycotts of Israel, British Empire, centre right, Etonian, failed state, Fall of the Berlin Wall, Farzad Bazoft, feminist movement, haute couture, kremlinology, liberal world order, light touch regulation, mass immigration, moral hazard, Naomi Klein, Plutocrats, plutocrats, post-industrial society, profit motive, Ralph Nader, road to serfdom, Ronald Reagan, Scientific racism, sensible shoes, the scientific method, union organizing, upwardly mobile, Yom Kippur War
‘Faced with the choice between serfdom and economic insecurity the masses everywhere would probably choose outright serfdom, at least if it were called by some other name,’ he wrote in 1944. Looking back to the America of the early Sixties, two sharp English writers noted that George W. Bush’s grandfather was a Republican who would never have described himself a conservative. Meanwhile: the Kennedy administration wore its civilised European values on its sleeve (literally so in the case of the haute-coutured first lady). The president liked to point out that he had spent a year at the London School of Economics as a student of a prominent Marxist, Harold Laski. ‘These without doubt are the years of the liberal,’ John Kenneth Galbraith wrote, somewhat smugly, in 1964. ‘Almost everyone now so describes himself.’ Right the way through to the Seventies, the greatest prestige attached to ‘experts’ in public service.
Remix by John Courtenay Grimwood
Now the rain made it hard even to see this edge of the river and, even if it hadn’t, the Institut was gone, eaten down to a brittle rim like a badly rusted tin can. The higher the iron content the more virulent the viral attack. And the Institut Bonaparte had been walled with pure steel. Habit made her fold the black Dior skirt and drape it over the back of a Louis XVII chair. Just as habit made her slip her cloak onto an old-fashioned hanger. Too late, of course. There were clothes and then there was haute couture. Smart fabric or not, Dior had never intended that skirt to be worn in the needle’s eye of a thunder storm. All the same, Clare tried to smooth out the skirt’s creases before stepping out of her shot-silk slip. That got treated to a hanger, too. And then, stripped naked, Lady Clare stepped into a sonic cubicle, punching the setting up to maximum. It took two seconds to get clean, but she stayed inside the Matsui cubicle for a full half-minute, which was what the cubicle had left in its powerpack.
End of the World Blues by Jon Courtenay Grimwood
he said, stepping back to let Kit clamber over a tiny generator on his way to the window. It was beginning to look as if British intelligence provided one of the biggest markets for crappy accommodation in the city. “This is Alan,” said the Brigadier, but Kit’s attention was on the neon girl. She was retro kitsch, the kind of icon that had begun to spring up all over East Shinjuku and the bits of Roppongi not yet colonised by haute couture and impossibly expensive estate agents. “What’s the latest?” asked Amy, sounding brightly professional. The one advantage of the SUV over the Volvo was that Kit and Amy had been able to sit with the suitcase flat between them. In the last hour Amy hadn’t spoken one word to Kit; hadn’t even looked at him, come to that. “That CTV camera above the door is live,” said Alan. “We’ve jacked a feed.
I Want My MTV by Craig Marks
Bernie Sanders, Bob Geldof, Chuck Templeton: OpenTable, crack epidemic, crowdsourcing, haute couture, Live Aid, pre–internet, Ronald Reagan, Saturday Night Live, sensible shoes, Skype, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, Steven Levy, upwardly mobile
MICK KLEBER: Capitol had just signed Donny Osmond, and we put out his first “adult” album, Soldier of Love. Although Donny was one of the most unlikely MTV artists imaginable, they agreed to support a “Sacred Emotion” video if it worked for their audience. My objective was to erase the perception of Donny as a cheesy pretty boy. A talented young woman named Paula Walker started to make a great video featuring a troupe of exotic models in haute couture lingerie. Donny’s manager came in from Utah with a colleague who was introduced as a production adviser. The adviser said, “I know sexy, and this isn’t it.” I said, “You’re an expert on sexy?” He said, “I’m a Mormon with six kids. We have more sex with beautiful women than anybody.” Things got tense enough that I had to cancel the shoot. Now I had half the original budget to work with. I thought that it was going to take a miracle to bring back Donny Osmond.
Rewired: The Post-Cyberpunk Anthology by James Patrick Kelly, John Kessel
back-to-the-land, Columbine, dark matter, Extropian, Firefox, gravity well, haute couture, Internet Archive, pattern recognition, phenotype, post-industrial society, price stability, Silicon Valley, slashdot, Stephen Hawking, technological singularity, telepresence, the scientific method, Turing test, urban renewal, Vernor Vinge, wage slave, Y2K, zero day
But Japheth said, “Fair enough,” and pocketed the plastic tubes the monkey handed over. “You’re no trader,” said Soma, or started to, but heard the words slur out of him in an unintelligible mess of vowels. One spring semester, when he’d already been a TA for a year, he was tapped to work on the interface. No more need for scholarships. “Painter!” shouted Japheth. Soma looked up. There was a Crow dressed in Alley haute couture standing in front of him. He tried to open his head to call the Tennessee Highway Patrol. He couldn’t find his head. “Give him one of these yellow ones,” said a monkey. “They’re good for fugues.” “Painter!” shouted Japheth again. The grip on Soma’s shoulder was like a vise. Soma struggled to stand under his own power. “I’m forgetting something.” “Hah!” said Japheth. “You’re remembering. Too soon for my needs, though.
The Companion Guide to London by David Piper, Fionnuala Jervis
The establishments that deal in these commodities are, in comparison with the huge stores that fringe Mayfair along Regent Street and Oxford Street, relatively small-premised, select and specialist, though some, like the car shops in Berkeley Square or fashion shops like Fenwick, have long threatened to bloom into emporia. And now there are others jostling for more than a discreet door and window, forcing dealers away or at best upstairs; the flagships of haute couture, Versace, Prada and their like, in spacious sparse palaces. Yet an air of exclusivity persists. In Oxford Street you may at times feel that you are merely a permutation of a range of standard measurements; if your particular permutation cannot be matched – be fitted – this will not be due to any failure in the supply offered by the shops – it will be your fault; in fact, you may feel, you are a freak, abnormal.
Frommer's Cuba by Claire Boobbyer
You’ll find guayaberas for sale all over; some of the typically touristy gift shops even carry them. One good place to shop for a guayabera is El Quitirín, Calle Obispo and San Ignacio (& 7/862-0810). For a more upscale selection, head over to Miramar and shop at La Maison (see below); Le Select, Avenida 5 and Calle 28 ( & 7/207-9681); or Joyería Quinta y 16 (see “Jewelry,” below). La Maison This minicomplex in an old M iramar mansion is the home of C uban haute coutur e, but that ’s not saying much. S everal stor es spr ead ar ound the rambling 09_345429-ch05.indd 122 11/20/08 8:37:10 PM converted home featur e a limited range of men ’s and women ’s fashions, je welry, and 123 accessories. There’s a nightly runway fashion show (CUC$10/US$11/£5.40), as well as a modest cabar et sho w, combined with the fashion sho w on w eekends. Calle 16 no . 701 (corner of Av. 7), Miramar, Playa. & 7/204-1543.
Jim Henson: The Biography by Brian Jay Jones
In the months leading up to the December release, Jim was determined to build a buzz about the film, making a presentation at the World Science Fiction Convention in Chicago, producing a behind-the-scenes documentary, and opening Dark Crystal–related exhibits at the Craft Gallery in Los Angeles and at New York’s Lincoln Center Library. Most ambitious, perhaps, he had also asked the costumers in the London workshop to create a Dark Crystal Clothing Collection—described by its designers as “dramatic haute couture”—to be sold exclusively through four high-end boutiques, including Jim’s favorite, Liberty’s of London. The fashion line ended up being more notable for its flashy window displays, which used puppets and props from the film, than for its sales—but for Jim, who appreciated craftsmanship and design, the fun had been more in the doing than in the selling. In early December, Jim, Oz, and producer Gary Kurtz began a worldwide press tour to promote The Dark Crystal, set to premiere in New York in mid-December.
A Life in Secrets by Sarah Helm
The couple had travelled the length and breadth of central France posing as an agricultural salesman and his assistant but in reality recruiting followers, sabotaging railway lines, and receiving arms drops. Over the first five months of 1943, 240 containers of arms and explosives were dropped to Prosper's cells by aircraft flying from England. By late May 1943 Vera was preparing two further women to join subcircuits of the Prosper network. One, a Frenchwoman named Vera Leigh, who before the war worked in an haute couture hat shop in Paris, had proved an excellent trainee. “Dead keen” and “the best shot in the group,” said her instructors. However, the second woman due to join Suttill was causing Vera some anxiety; this was the young WAAF officer Nora Inayat Khan. So large was Suttill's network by now that he had urgently requested a further wireless operator (he already had two) to work with a suborga-niser and to act as backup to his own wireless man.
USA's Best Trips by Sara Benson
Albert Einstein, California gold rush, car-free, carbon footprint, desegregation, diversified portfolio, Donald Trump, Donner party, East Village, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, Golden Gate Park, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, if you build it, they will come, indoor plumbing, McMansion, mega-rich, New Urbanism, Ralph Waldo Emerson, rolodex, Ronald Reagan, side project, Silicon Valley, the High Line, transcontinental railway, trickle-down economics, urban renewal, urban sprawl, white flight, white picket fence, Works Progress Administration
* * * Aspen’s handsome, historic red-brick downtown is full of unique boutiques, classy saloons and gourmet eating establishments – no other Colorado town (not even Denver) can boast stand-alone Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada and Chanel stores. In early 2010 Aspen’s attitude was considered glamorous enough to merit its own reality show, the locally controversial Secrets of Aspen. Most of the haute-couture shopping is found on Galena St, Aspen’s version of Rodeo Dr. Visit Hopkins Ave, dubbed Restaurant Row, for posh eateries like Jimmy’s, the perfect place to bid your Colorado ski trip goodbye with top-shelf tequila. Aspen’s top spot for dinner and dancing, Jimmy’s is a steak and crab shack with an attitude, attracting a very A-list crowd. Settle into a well-loved booth, order your favorite cut of meat and check out the writing on the wall.
France (Lonely Planet, 8th Edition) by Nicola Williams
active transport: walking or cycling, back-to-the-land, bike sharing scheme, British Empire, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, Columbine, double helix, Guggenheim Bilbao, haute couture, haute cuisine, Henri Poincaré, Honoré de Balzac, illegal immigration, industrial robot, information trail, Jacquard loom, Jacquard loom, Joseph-Marie Jacquard, Louis Blériot, Louis Pasteur, low cost carrier, Mahatma Gandhi, means of production, Murano, Venice glass, pension reform, QWERTY keyboard, ride hailing / ride sharing, Saturday Night Live, Silicon Valley, Skype, Sloane Ranger, supervolcano, trade route, urban renewal, urban sprawl, V2 rocket
Smaller shops often shut all day Monday; other days, their proprietors may simply close from noon to around 2pm for a long lunch. Many larger stores hold nocturnes (late nights) on Thursdays, remaining open until around 10pm. For Sunday shopping, the Champs-Élysées, Montmartre, the Marais and Bastille areas are the liveliest. Winter soldes (sales) – during which many shops extend their hours – start mid-January; summer ones, in the second week of June. Clothing & Fashion HAUTE COUTURE & DESIGNER WEAR Most of the major French couturiers and ready-to-wear designers have their own boutiques in the capital, but it’s also possible to see labelled, ready-to-wear collections at major department stores such as Le Printemps, Galeries Lafayette and Le Bon Marché. The Right Bank, especially the so-called Triangle d’Or (Map; Franklin D Roosevelt or Alma Marceau, 1er & 8e) formed by av Montaigne and av Georges V, rue du Faubourg St-Honoré (Map; Madeleine or Concorde, 8e) and its eastern extension, rue St-Honoré ( Tuileries), place des Victoires (Map; Bourse or Sentier, 1er & 2e) and the Marais’ rue des Rosiers (Map; St-Paul, 4e), is traditionally the epicentre of Parisian fashion, though St-Germain (Map; St-Sulpice or St-Germain des Prés) on the Left Bank can also claim a share of boutiques.
All mail to France must include the five-digit code postal (postcode/ZIP code), which begins with the two-digit number of the département. For French postcodes, see www.france-codepostal.fr/en or www.codeposte.com (in French). The notation ‘CEDEX’ after a town name simply means that mail sent to that address is collected at the post office, rather than delivered to the door. Return to beginning of chapter SHOPPING France is renowned for its luxury goods, particularly haute couture, high-quality clothing accessories (eg Hermès scarves), lingerie, perfume and cosmetics. However, such goods may not be any cheaper in France than at home. Soldes (sales) – held, by law, for three weeks in January and July – offer significant discounts and can be a gold mine for fashionistas. The budget-conscious should also look out for the words degriffés (name-brand products with the labels cut out) or dépôt-vente (ex-showroom garments sold at steep mark-downs).
Lonely Planet China (Travel Guide) by Lonely Planet, Shawn Low
Albert Einstein, anti-communist, bike sharing scheme, call centre, carbon footprint, clean water, colonial rule, credit crunch, Deng Xiaoping, haute couture, haute cuisine, income inequality, indoor plumbing, land reform, mass immigration, Pearl River Delta, place-making, Rubik’s Cube, Skype, South China Sea, special economic zone, sustainable-tourism, trade route, upwardly mobile, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, women in the workforce, Xiaogang Anhui farmers, young professional
Dragonfly (Youting Baojian Huisuo MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %5403 9982; www.dragonfly.net.cn; 206 Xinle Road; massage per 60 mins ¥188; h10am-2am; mSouth Shaanxi Rd) Green Massage (Qinglai Yangshen GOOGLE MAP ; %5386 0222; www.greenmassage.com.cn; 58 Taicang Rd; massages & spa treatments ¥198-318; h10.30am-2am; mSouth Huangpi Rd) Cinemas Cathay TheatreCINEMA (Guotai Dianyingyuan MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 870 Middle Huaihai Rd; tickets from ¥40; mSouth Shaanxi Rd) This 1932 art deco theatre is one of the cheaper and more centrally located French Concession cinemas. If you want to know if the film is in the original, ask if it's the yuanban version. 7Shopping From mega-malls to independent boutiques and haute couture, Shanghai is once again at the forefront of Chinese fashion and design. The Bund & People’s Square oShanghai Museum Art StoreGIFTS (Shanghai Bowuguan Yishupin Shangdian MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 201 Renmin Ave; h9.30am-5pm; mPeople’s Sq) Attached to the Shanghai Museum and entered from East Yan’an Rd, this store offers refreshing variety from the usual tourist tat. Apart from the excellent range of books on Chinese art and architecture, there's a good selection of quality cards, prints and slides.
Admission charges for children and seniors at many sights are roughly half the regular price. HONG KONG MUSEUMS The Hong Kong Museum Pass (www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/attractions/museum-major.html), which allows multiple entries to all museums mentioned in this chapter, is available from participating museums. Museums are free on Wednesday. Hong Kong Island Central is where high finance meets haute couture, and mega deals are closed in towering skyscrapers. To the west is historically rich – and increasingly hip – Sheung Wan, while Admiralty with its few but excellent offerings lies to the east. The 800m-long Central–Mid-Levels Escalator ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hdown 6-10am, up 10.30am-midnight), which begins on Queen’s Rd Central and finishes at Conduit Rd, is useful for negotiating the slopes of Sheung Wan.
Jerusalem: The Biography by Simon Sebag-Montefiore
anti-communist, Ayatollah Khomeini, British Empire, California gold rush, Etonian, facts on the ground, haute couture, Khartoum Gordon, place-making, Plutocrats, plutocrats, sexual politics, spice trade, trade route, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, white flight, Yom Kippur War
Not to be outdone, the mufti built his own hotel, the Palace, using Jewish contractors, on the site of the ancient Mamilla cemetery. When an American Jewess, a former nurse, opened the first beauty parlour, peasants stood and stared, expecting the mannequins in the window to speak. The best bookshop in town was run by Boulos Said, father of the intellectual Edward, and his brother near the Jaffa Gate, while the finest haute couture emporium belonged to Kurt May and his wife, typical German Jews fleeing Hitler. When he created the shop - the name 'May' was emblazoned above the door in Hebrew, English and Arab - he imported all the fixtures from Germany and soon it attracted the rich wives of Jewish businessmen and British proconsuls - and of Abdullah of Jordan. Emperor Haile Selassie and his entourage once took over the entire shop.
Surfaces and Essences by Douglas Hofstadter, Emmanuel Sander
affirmative action, Albert Einstein, Arthur Eddington, Benoit Mandelbrot, Brownian motion, Chance favours the prepared mind, cognitive dissonance, computer age, computer vision, dematerialisation, Donald Trump, Douglas Hofstadter, Ernest Rutherford, experimental subject, Flynn Effect, Georg Cantor, Gerolamo Cardano, Golden Gate Park, haute couture, haute cuisine, Henri Poincaré, Isaac Newton, l'esprit de l'escalier, Louis Pasteur, Mahatma Gandhi, mandelbrot fractal, Menlo Park, Norbert Wiener, place-making, Sapir-Whorf hypothesis, Silicon Valley, statistical model, Steve Jobs, Steve Wozniak, theory of mind, upwardly mobile, urban sprawl, yellow journalism, zero-sum game
Thus we English speakers occasionally have déjà vu experiences that give us a frisson, we try to avoid faux pas (they make us feel so gauche), we indulge in hors d’œuvres, soupe du jour, apple pie à la mode, and even sorbet, and once in a while we wear décolletés (as long as they’re not too risqué), we sometimes take in avant-garde films, read an article about coups d’état caused by fin-de-siècle decadence while en route to a secret rendezvous whose raison d’être is to engage in a tête-à-tête, enjoy ogling a femme fatale who’s petite but very chic and all decked out in haute couture duds, we always seek the mot juste par excellence, have an idée fixe of one day having carte blanche to hobnob with the crème de la crème, and of course if we are nouveaux riches, we seek out objets d’art (not likely to be made of papier mâché) to decorate our pied-à-terre while indulging ourselves in dernier cri technology. Ooh la la! The French, meanwhile, leave their break (station wagon) in the parking (the parking lot), in order to go play foot and flipper (soccer and pinball), listen to jazz and rock on their hi-fi, place their rosbif and pop-corn in their caddie (shopping cart), and later that day they go to their dressing (clothes closet) in order to find a smoking, a pull, and a pair of baskets (a tuxedo, a sweater, and tennis shoes) to wear to a rallye (a high-society surprise-party), and last but not least, they read magazines about le marketing in order to be smart and they use shampooing in order to have a look that is very sexy in order to get a job very cool.
Pity the Nation: Lebanon at War by Robert Fisk
Even the placidity of Tyre – or, as it was momentarily called by its tinpot rulers that autumn, the ‘People’s Republic of Tyre’ – had its deceptions. The lighthouse keeper had been without work for more than a year. True, the Lebanese government was still paying his salary. During the summer, he had been stitching dresses for his one-room shop round the corner where a faded sign proclaimed in white letters: ‘Haute Couture de Paris’. But there were no supplies of acetylene gas coming down from Beirut for his lighthouse, and besides, there were few ships. He was an approachable man who happily showed us the squat little red-painted lighthouse outside his front door. When we had climbed to the top, he made a point of telling us that it was possible to see the columns of the ancient Roman city just beneath the sea.
USA Travel Guide by Lonely, Planet
1960s counterculture, active transport: walking or cycling, Affordable Care Act / Obamacare, Albert Einstein, Asilomar, Bay Area Rapid Transit, Berlin Wall, Big bang: deregulation of the City of London, big-box store, bike sharing scheme, Bretton Woods, British Empire, Burning Man, California gold rush, call centre, car-free, carbon footprint, centre right, Chuck Templeton: OpenTable, cuban missile crisis, desegregation, Donald Trump, Donner party, East Village, edge city, El Camino Real, Fall of the Berlin Wall, feminist movement, Frank Gehry, glass ceiling, global village, Golden Gate Park, Guggenheim Bilbao, Haight Ashbury, haute couture, haute cuisine, Hernando de Soto, Howard Zinn, illegal immigration, immigration reform, information trail, interchangeable parts, intermodal, jitney, license plate recognition, Mars Rover, Mason jar, mass immigration, Maui Hawaii, McMansion, Menlo Park, Monroe Doctrine, new economy, New Urbanism, obamacare, off grid, Ralph Nader, Ralph Waldo Emerson, RFID, ride hailing / ride sharing, Ronald Reagan, Rosa Parks, Saturday Night Live, Silicon Valley, South of Market, San Francisco, stealth mode startup, stem cell, supervolcano, the built environment, The Chicago School, the High Line, the payments system, trade route, transcontinental railway, union organizing, Upton Sinclair, upwardly mobile, urban decay, urban planning, urban renewal, urban sprawl, walkable city, white flight, working poor, Works Progress Administration, young professional, Zipcar
Momentum HANDICRAFTS (www.ourmomentum.com; 1625 Pearl St; 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 11am-6pm Sun) The kitchen sink of unique global gifts – Zulu wire baskets, fabulous scarves from India, Nepal and Ecuador – all handcrafted and purchased at fair value from disadvantaged artisans. Every item purchased provides a direct economic lifeline to the artists. Common Threads CLOTHING (www.commonthreadsboulder.com; 2707 Spruce St; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Vintage shopping at its most haute couture, this fun place is where to go for secondhand Choos and Prada purses. The shop is a pleasure to browse, with clothing organized by color and type on visually aesthetic racks, just like a big-city boutique. Boulder Bookstore BOOKS (www.boulderbookstore.indiebound.com; 1107 Pearl St) Boulder’s favorite indie bookstore has a huge travel section downstairs and hosts readings and workshops. Information Boulder Visitor Center ( 303-442-2911; www.bouldercoloradousa.com; 2440 Pearl St; 8:30am-5pm Mon-Thu, 8:30am-4pm Fri) Offers information and internet access.
Next door, the Palazzo Offline map Google map (www.palazzo.com; 3325 Las Vegas Blvd S) exploits a variation on the Italian theme to a less interesting effect: despite the caliber of the Shoppes at the Palazzo and the star-studded dining – including exhilarating ventures by culinary heavyweights Charlie Trotter, Emeril Legasse and Wolfgang Puck – the luxurious casino floor and common areas somehow exude a lackluster brand of excitement. Caesars Palace CASINO Offline map Google map (www.caesarspalace.com; 3570 Las Vegas Blvd S) Quintessentially Las Vegas, Caesars Palace is a Greco-Roman fantasyland featuring marble reproductions of classical statuary, including a not-to-be-missed 4-ton Brahma shrine near the front entrance. Towering fountains, goddess-costumed cocktail waitresses and the swanky haute-couture Forum Shops Offline map Google map all ante up the glitz. Paris Las Vegas CASINO Offline map Google map (www.parislasvegas.com; 3655 Las Vegas Blvd S) Evoking the gaiety of the City of Light, Paris Las Vegas strives to capture the essence of the grand dame by re-creating her landmarks. Fine likenesses of the Opéra, the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-Élysées, the soaring Eiffel Tower and even the Seine frame the property.